A Historic Walk around Gamla Stan in Stockholm
Welcome to my Gamla Stan self-guided walking tour. Gamla Stan is one of the best-preserved old towns in Europe. Located on a small island, the town grew in the 12th century as the earliest form of Stockholm. The architecture here is distinctly North German; after all, the German Hanseatic League played an important role in the development of Gamla Stan.
Life here must’ve been interesting. The island was very densely populated, which is why the streets are so narrow. Waste and garbage was poured into the alleys, and there aren’t many traces left of sophisticated sewers that have been found in other old towns like Bergen. Most likely the slopes in Gamla Stan did the job.
The island was suited for a settlement because it was easy to defend. The island is also at the inlet of Lake Malaren, a lake important for trade in the Baltic.
The name Gamla Stan is from the 20th century when Stockholm had expanded away from the island. Before then, it was simply called ‘sjalva staden’ (the city itself).
From the mid-19th century to the mid-20th century, Gamla Stan was considered a slum and the buildings were in disrepair.
In the last fifty years interest in Gamla Stan has renewed. Archaeological excavations show that the oldest streets are three metres below the present ones. The oldest streets are covered with wood; stone paving didn’t come until the 14th century.
This self-guided walk will take you into the historic alleys and past some of the oldest buildings in the city. This is a history walk with a focus on what Gamla Stan would’ve been like in its heyday.
In this article...
The Walking Route
Riddarholmskyrkan
The church dates back to the 13th century and is today one of the oldest buildings in Stockholm. It was originally built as a grey-friars monastery but after the Reformation it was converted into a church.
Riddarholmen Church has been used as a funeral and memorial church since 1807 and is known for being the final resting place of many Swedish Royal Family members. Several chapels here are dedicated to various Swedish kings.
Bondeska Palatset
This is the most prominent building from the Swedish Empire (1611-1718). It was built in 1662 as a private residence for the Lord Treasurer, Gustaf Bonde. In the 18th century it accommodated the Stockholm Court house, and since 1949 it has had the Swedish Supreme Court.
The style is based on the French Baroque and Renaissance prototypes common in the 17th century.
Storkyrkobrinken
The streets name means “Big Church Slope” and in medieval times it was the main slope leading up to the village church that sat on Stadsholmen.
Vasterlånggatan
This is the main thoroughfare and tourist street in Gamla Stan, and as such it is the main tourist street in Gamla Stan. I find that it lacks a lot of the charm of the area, so we’ll try and avoid it.
Prastgatan
The name, “Priest Street”, comes from the fact that it was the residences of three chaplains and a bell ringer during the 16th century. The residences were demolished in 1708 to make room for the parsonage that is still there today.
The northern part of the street was known as Helvetesgränd, or the “Alley of Hell”, just like the surrounding area north and west of the cathedral Storkyrkan was referred to as Helvetet (Hell). The areas north of the church were often referred to as ‘the northern side of the damned’ and therefore a place of disgrace suitable for suicides and criminals.
Those who committed suicide as well as criminals were buried in this area. The towns executioner also lived here. The executioner was usually a person sentenced to death who was allowed to live in return for acting as an executioner. He also had the towns badge burned on him and his ears were cut off so he couldn’t evade his duties.
The street has been featured in an Ingmar Bergman film.
Kakbrinken
Here we will see a runestone built into the wall of a shop. The stone dates from the Iron Age but historians don’t know exactly how old it is or why it is in a wall in Stockholm. Runestones were usually made to memorialise the dead, and this one says “Torsten and Frogunn had this stone erected after their son”
The stone was probably brought to Stockholm to be used as a building material, from where it is not known. As the female name Frogunn is known as a pagan name, the stone is believed to be from around 1000, the stone thus 200 years older than the city.
A laser range scanner in 2002 showed variations in stroke patterns in the grooves of the stone, and that the stone was probably carved by a master builder and apprentice.
Tyska Brinken
The name means ‘German Slope’ but is not the original name of the area. The street is first mentioned in history as the ‘water slope’ and later was the ‘shoemakers slope’.
The current form of the name refers to the German church and German parish who lived in the area. The German influence on Stockholm was considerable during the Middle Ages – half of the population and the members of the City Council were German, the Hanseatic League dominated trade, the wealthiest burghers were Germans, and the German language and culture was everywhere.
Archaeological excavations in the area in 1993 exposed the remains of the old city wall and traces of what looks like a defensive tower from the 14th century.
Number 20-22 is a rococo building called “Building of the German Church”. It was created in 1869 when three medieval buildings were merged
Skomakergatan
Together with Köpmangatan, it is the oldest preserved street name in Gamla Stan. In 1337 it was referred to as (in Latin) “on the street of the shoemakers”, and the street remained the quarters for the trade until the early 18th century The royal weaving mill was located on the street in the 16th century, as were two guild lounges dedicated to St. Olaf and Helga Lekaman (The Holy Body of Christ).
Number 24 has a cannonball sticking out. There are three cannonballs stuck in the adjacent building. The story about the first cannonball is that it was shot during the 16th century at King Christian II of Denmark. As the legend goes, the cannon was fired at him during the Stockholm Bloodbath but it missed. It’s believed it was shot by Gustav Vasa as he laid siege to the city. The projectile launched into the wall and has been there ever since
The ball lodged above the apartment is believed ot have been built into the façade by a furniture merchant named Fredrik Christian Hans Grevesmuhl in 1785. He rebuilt his house and had the idea to put the cannonball in in honour of Vasa’s successful siege
Tyska Kyrkan
The name means ‘The German Church’ and refers to the German congregation.
Back in the Middle Ages it served the local German community and was built in honour of Saint Gertrude, the patron saint of travellers. The German guild of St. Gertrude was founded on the location for the present church in the 14th century. The guild was created by German merchants. They were permitted to build their own church under King Gustav Vasa in 1558. During the 17th century, the church became a major epicentre for church music in Swedish.
By 1800 the German congregation had dwindled to 113 people. Today it is under the Church of Sweden as a non-territorial parish. There are 2000 members of the church and Services are held every Sunday at 11am.
The church is built in a baroque style brick structure with a copper covered spire and neo-gothic gargoyles perched from the top. The brick steeple and copper spire was completed in 1878 after a fire destroyed the previous tower. There are neogothic gargoyles featuring grotesque animals, a very unusual feature in Swedish architectural history. Gargoyles are uncommon in Scandinavia.
On the Northern Gate is a gilded image of a patron saint and the exhortation “fear god! Honour the King!”
Kindstugatan
Kindstugatan has a couple buildings of interest if you want to take a small detour:
Number 8 – the walls reveal the building from 1657 which used to be occupied by medical doctor and personal physician to Swedish Queen Ulrika Eleonora the Elder, Johan von Hoorn (1662-1724). The latter introduced obstetrics to Sweden and published the “Well Trained Swedish Midwife” book in 1697 thus pioneering the development which by the early 20th century had made maternal mortality in Sweden a third of that in the US.
Number 14 – rose coloured known for being a tavern where the renowned Swedish poet Lasse Lucidor was stabbed to death in a fight. While Lucidor also wrote hymns and spiritual songs and renewed the genre, he is mostly known for his realistic portrayals of inebriety and his famous poem “I would be a fool to grieve”
Svartmangatan
Svartmangatan (literally the “Black Man Street”) is mentioned as early as 1437, making it one of the oldest streets in Stockholm. The street originally led from the central square (Stortorget) to the Dominican convent. The Svartbrörakloster, or the Dominican convent, was built in 1336 by Dominican monks when they received the land as a donation from King Magnus Landulås. They got the name ‘Black Brothers’ because of their black robes.
Tyska Brunnsplan
Tyska Brunnsplan (literally ‘German Well Square’) is another name that related to the importance of the Germans in Gamla Stan. The well used to be much larger, but during the latter part of the 18th century, the city’s fire department changed the square so it would be a turning space for horse-drawn vehicles. The goal was to prevent people causing accidents that would result in fire. Architect Erik Palmstedt was given the job of redoing the square, and he was inspired by Neoclassical architecture. However, he was restricted by the Medieval landscape, and this resulted in the present very small little well.
The first synagogue in Stockholm was founded on the square’s eastern side in the 19th century and is today a Jewish Museum.
The current location of the well is flanked by two chestnut trees. The location was once the site of a pharmacy called Apotheket Svan, or the Swan Pharmacy. Svartmangatan number 18 still has a sign for the pharmacy.
Tyska Stallplan
Yes, another reference to the Germans! The name directly means “German Stable Square”, referring to the stables that were here in the 18th and 19th centuries. However, the square used to be the site of the Blackfriars Monastery and excavation have unveiled the remains of the monastery walls under the present street. You’ll see cobblestone on the ground shaped differently; this is supposed to show where the monastery was.
Here we’ll see a granite sculpture by Ivar Johnsson from 1956 of a young man mounting a horse.
Storkyrkoskolan
The Saint Nicolai School, also known as the Cathedral School, is an old school located together with the Estonian School in Gamla Stan. The school is documented since 1315 but it’s likely that it was established at the end of the 13th century. It is considered to be the oldest school in Stockholm. This is not the original location of the school; it moved here at the end of the 19th century.
Excavations done under the school in 2016 revealed remains from the 14th century that may originate from the church of the Blackfriars. Two-metre-thick foundation walls were discovered, and they run in a different direction from the 17th century buildings in the square.
The oldest part of the school is the Ehrenstrahlska Huset, which was built in 1650. It is the yellow house back towards the old well. The house was built for the court painter David Klocker Ehrenstrahl in 1666 and is believed to stand on the walls of the Blackfiars Monastery.
Marten Trotzigs Gard
This is the narrowest street in Stockholm. It’s 90cm (36 inches) wide at its narrowest point and as the buildings tilt with age, it’s getting incrementally narrower each year. It’s also the only place in Stockholm’s old town where you will see graffiti.
Mårten Trotzigs gränd, or Mårten Trotzigs Alley, is the only preserved staircase alley in Gamla Stan.
The name isn’t very old; it was named in 1949 after Marten Traubtzig (Swedishised to Mårten Trotzig), who was born in Germany in 1559. It’s not known why he came to Stockholm, but it was likely for trading. He traded in iron and copper and eventually became a Swedish citizen. In 1597 he bought a small house on the eastern part of the alley and then in 1599 he bought another house in the alley. During his life, he became perhaps the richest merchant and citizen in Stockholm and had many children.
On 21 March 1617, while visiting his mine, he died. He was likely robbed and murdered, but it has not been converted. His oldest son, Johan, takes over the properties and business and became known as Johan the Rich. His children sold the properties in 1679.
The alley had various names after the Trotzigs, but all the names referred back to them (for example, Trotz grändh. When it got its current name in 1949 it is the first time the word ‘Mårten’ is used on the street name. it was never known if ‘Trotzig’ was referring to Mårten or Johan.
The narrowest point is 90cm / 35 inches.
Järntorget
Järntorget (literally “Iron Square”) is a historic square in Stockholm. The square is the second-oldest square in Stockholm after Gamla Stan. The square was established around 1300 and was the city’s most important trad centre for centuries. The square was originally called Korntorget (Grain Squre) but got the name Järntorget in 1489.
Iron trade surpassed corn trade in terms of importance. Controlling and putting a control on trade was an important income for the city and the king, and the city’s official scales were located here on the square. Besides iron, Sweden exported copper, silver, hide, fur, salmon and butter. Sweden imported salt, broadcloth, beer, wine, and luxury items such as spice, glass, and ceramics.
During the Middle Ages, the area was dominated by German merchants, though there were also people from the British Isles, France and the Netherlands trading here.
In the 17th century the square underwent a major transformation. Numerous taverns were in the square and the official scales were moved to Sodermalm. Wealthy people began to move in and built taller and more prestigious buildings. Having a property here was the best you could have as a merchant. The development was further promoted by the construction of Södra Bankohuset, the national bank building on number 84 in 1680. This was Sweden’s and the world’s first national bank.
Sundbergs Konditori, the oldest confectioners shop in town, on number 83, was founded in 1785.
You will see a pump in the middle of the square. There has never been a functional pump here; this pump was gifted to the city from the Riksbank (which is in the square) in 1827. During the first 100 years the pump worked, but today it is just a work of art.
The statue by the bank building is Evert Taube standing waiting for his ordered taxi, which is why he has pushed his glasses up on his forehead.
Norra Bankohuset
This building is from 1770. It used to house the note-printing works and the money depot of Riksbank, the main bank in Sweden, until its relocation in 1906. The windows on the ground level still show its old function.
Den Gyldene Freden
Den Gyldene Freden received its name from the Peace of Nystad (1721) (Freden=peace) by which Russia gained control over a hefty chunk of Swedish territory, but strangely enough and luckily so (Gyldene = golden), allowed Sweden to keep Finland. One of Sweden’s best-known eateries, this is the second oldest restaurant in the world to have retained its original interior, unchanged since the day it opened in 1722. It is a unique example of an 18th century tavern and a well-deserved entry to the Guiness Book of Records.
It is now owned by the Swedish Nobel Academy, and they have their Thursday luncheons there every week.
Österlånggatan
Österlånggatan (literally “Eastern Long Street”) is similar to Västerlånggatan, which we passed earlier in our walk. The street used to pass by the city walls on the eastern side of the island. However, it is much quieter than Västerlånggatan because it was not considered as important as Västerlånggatan. Compared to all the tourist shops you see on the west, Österlånggatan has boutique shops and nice restaurants.
Archaeological excavations have unveiled the original land around three metres below the pavement. The shoreline has been gradually pushed east by land fillings of gravel and rubbish. Some noble families lived here, but Österlånggatan was rather associated with taverns. Of all these taverns, only Den Gyldene Freden (The Golden Peace) remains. However, the filth, stench, fights and misery are gone.
For many centuries this was one of the main thoroughfares through Stockholm. Back in the 1300s the street used to reach outside the city walls and was filled with woodwork and blacksmith workshops supporting the local shipping industry. The shoreline was eventually pushed eastward by land fillings of gravel and rubbish, so by the 14th century the street had become the long street east of the wall (Swedish name), far from the water.
The shipping trade gradually disappeared and by the early 20th century virtually everything was gone.
St. George and the Dragon
This statue depicts Saint George slaying a dragon. The legend of Saint George dates to the crusades. Saint George is said to have saved an entire village in Libya from a dragon. Provided they converted to Christianity first, of course. The statue is a replica – the original wooden version is in Storkyrkan church.
Kopmangatan
Historic street comprised of two slipes. Back in the Middle Ages, up to 1520, the area used to be a fish market – hence the name. One of the city’s medieval gates, The Merchants Gate, was found on the eastern end of this street until it was demolished in 1685.
Staffan Sasses Gränd
Staffan Sasses Gränd is a small alley that is named after Staffan Sasse, a man from Germany who bought a house here in 1524. He served under Sten Sture the Younger and then under King Gustav Vasa during the time when the Danes were being forced out of Stockholm. He later became the castle bailiff, which is similar to being the head of the county council in relation to defence. For a while the alley was named after Blasius Dundie, a merchant from Scotland. In 1925, it got its original name back.
The alley is where you’ll find Rosenporten, which is considered the oldest portal in Gamla Stan. The rose portal dates to around 1580.
Stortorget
This is the main square in Gamla Stan. The medieval square is 0.5m below the present cobbles. Traces of poles indicate that the area had simple sheds in the 13th century. Traces of an older building are believed to date to 1024
The square started as a junction in which the tracks that cross-crossed the island converged. By 1400 the city had 6,000 inhabitants and stone buildings were built aroudn the square
Stortorget 3-5
Number 3 (the blue-ish one) was built by merchant Hans Bremer in the 1640s. Still features the original cross vaults and German inscription on the entrance hall. Today the building is known as the “Grill House” after the goldsmith Antoni Grill, who immigrated from Amsterdam to Sweden in 1659. He bought the building in 1681 and it remained in the family for over 100 years. The clove-shaped gables were added in 1718 together with the blue colour and rococo portal
Number 5 (the yellow one) is a second hand shop. There are painted joists from the 1640s displaying animals, flowers and fruits. The ceiling inside is one of the few accessible to the public.
Stortorget 22 (Green One)
Number 22 is from 1758 and stands on medieval walls. It was occupied by councillor Johan Berndes who developed the Swedish copper production in the 17th century
Stortorget 18-20
These are the most famous ones on Stortorget. They merged in the 17th century. Named after Johan Eberhard Schantz, the secretary of Charles X Gustavus who added the stepped gable and grand portal on the left building.
The 82 white stones on number 20 are said to symbolise the heads decapitated by the Danish king in 1520.
The house was built no later than 1479, when it appears in historic records
Stortorget 14-16
Named after Aesculapius, the son of Apollo and the demigod of medicine, which is reflected in the presence of the “Raven Pharmacy” at this address for more 300 years. The pharmacy is now still active a block away
Nobel Prize Museum
The museum opened in the spring of 2001, marking the centenary of the Noble Prize. Its permanent display includes many artefacts donated by the laureates, presented together with their personal life stories, with the Nobel Laureates of 1901 and continuing to the present day, including prominent individuals such as Marie Curie, Nelson Mandela and Winston Churchill.
Hello just discovered your page and it’s is so informative. Looking to do the Gamla Stan walking tour – wondering what you estimate the total walk to be, how much time to allow? Thx