If you’re after a weekend offering a taste of rural Australia that’s not-quite-but-almost outback with beautiful scenery and quiet attractions, consider Warrumbungle National Park.
Known for its rugged, mountainous landscapes ripe with bushwalking tracks, this part of New South Wales may be remote, but the Warrumbungles are well worth the drive.
Found in the central part of the state, the national park’s closest town is Coonabarabran. It’s the most convenient place to stay when visiting if you don’t want to camp.
At about 480km by road, much of it country highways, it’s a long journey from Sydney. This trip may be better done over a long weekend or by taking the Friday or Monday off . However, you can drive up on Friday afternoon if you don’t mind arriving after dark.
Just be mindful of wildlife – the roads are likely going to be dark and quiet.
This itinerary revolves mostly around hiking in the area, but there’s plenty else to do and some of the walks are accessible for almost all abilities, including Sculptures in the Scrub.
Tip: For budding astronomers, it’s also regarded as one of the country’s best stargazing spots. Australia’s first “Dark Sky Park“, the area boasts some of the world’s clearest skies thanks to low humidity, high altitude and a lack of light pollution.
Day 1: Getting to Warrumbungle National Park
Leaving Sydney early on a Friday morning, the drive to Coonabarabran – Coona for short – should take roughly six hours, not including any stops for food, toilets or petrol.
You can travel either via the Blue Mountains or north through the Hunter Valley, the latter which is slightly faster. Unfortunately it wasn’t the most scenic route.
I visited Warrumbungle National Park in May, and had sunlight until about 6:30pm. That left me a few hours in the afternoon to explore before the sun set.
Things to do in the Warrumbungles on day one:
Sculptures in the Scrub
Where an art gallery and bushwalking track somehow meet, Sculptures in the Scrub is a 3-kilometre long walk that celebrates local Aboriginal culture.
The easy track follows a ridge where you’ll see multiple sculptures, including the one pictured above, before descending into the valley for the return trip.
Technically in Timmallallie National Park rather than Warrumbungle, at about an hour’s drive from Coona, it’s worth tacking onto a trip to the region.
Note: The drive into Sculptures in the Scrub does require about 20km to be driven down a dirt track. In a small, Mitsubishi Mirage, the drive was a bit of a struggle and the sand was a bit deep in parts.
Recommended? Yes
Sandstone Caves Walking Track
The Sandstone Caves can be found in Pilliga Nature Reserve, on the way to or from Coona if also visiting Sculptures in the Scrub, making them a perfect pairing of walks to do.
The track itself is a lasso shape, with a short walk from the parking area that takes you to a loop around the impressive rock formations, pictured above.
Short and sweet, this 1.7 kilometre walk was the perfect end to a first day in the region. The track was quiet and goats outnumbered bushwalkers.
Tip: Golden Hour is an incredible time to explore this area. Although it started to get quite chilly toward the end of my walk, the way the late afternoon sun hits the sandstone makes for some beautiful scenery.
Recommended? Yes
Staying in Coonabarabran
Budget accommodation was the main goal, and the Imperial Hotel in town hit the nail on the head for a two-night stay. At just $55 per night, the Budget Single Room was exactly as described. A no frills stay without any updated features and a single bed.
Unfortunately, as the temperature hovered around freezing overnight, the room was very cold. Fortunately, staff were able to provide extra blankets. The showers in the shared bathrooms also had delightfully hot water that was hard to leave behind.
Superior Single Rooms, which cost slightly more (and in hindsight would have probably been a better buy at just $65).
Location-wise, you can’t get much better than the Imperial. Coona is a one-roundabout town and the pub sits on the south-west corner of it. There’s also a Woolworths right across the street.
Day 2: A full day exploring Warrumbungle National Park
The main event!
The drive into the national park is just stunning. Rolling green hills grow into small mountains as you enter the range. After a close call with a kangaroo on the road, watch out for wildlife if you’re driving near dawn or dusk.
Things to do in the Warrumbungles on day two:
Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk
The walk that drives many to the national park, Breadknife and Grand High Tops is regarded by many as one of the best walks in New South Wales. And there’s no disagreement here.
With roughly a 650m gain in elevation throughout the 14.5 kilometre walk, it’s also a challenging one. But the views are very much worth it.
Once you do reach the top (and, of course, with little sneak peeks of it along the way), the view across the national park is incredible.
Rocky peaks, green hills and the hint of blue in the air from all the eucalyptus surrounds you. There’s quite a few smaller rocks and boulders to sit on up here and have a snack or lunch with a view of what the walk is famous for.
The “Breadknife” is a narrow, rugged rock that slices out of the hillside looking quite like its namesake.
Recommended? Yes
Middle Belougery Flats Circuit
If you can still manage it, there are plenty other walks in the park aside from Breadknife. A lesser-treaded track would be Middle Belougery Flats Circuit.
A loop beginning and ending at Camp Blackman, this trail (most of which is the quality of an old 4WD track with compacted dirt) is an easy-but-scenic walk. The kind where the smooth track is free of too many obstacles so you can take in the views surrounding you without being too concerned about tripping.
While going on this walk in either direction is surely lovely, travelling clockwise from the campsite rewards you with views of the jagged, once-volcanic range.
Recommended? If you have time.
Wambelong Nature Walking Track
Late afternoon, with enough energy for just a few more kilometres, the Wambelong Nature Walking Track was a great way to finish off a full day in the national park.
At 2.4 kilometres long, this walk can be started from Camp Blackman, or a shorter 1km loop can be joined from the Canyon Picnic Area. There are also toilet facilities here.
Following a creek for much of the way, it’s an easy, well-formed track with parts surrounded by soaring red rocks making you feel like you’ve suddenly stepped into the Northern Territory.
Recommended? If you have time.
Sunset at Whitegum Lookout
After a full day of bushwalking, unless you’re travelling in summer, it will probably be somewhere around sunset when you’re leaving the park.
Before you exit altogether, pull into the parking area at Whitegum Lookout. The walk itself is only about 500 metres each way and follows a relatively flat track. But when you reach the end of it, you’ll be treated to panoramic views of rolling hills into the distance. The sun sets here behind the hills, and being only a short walk back to the car park you won’t need to worry about the track being too dark on your return.
Recommended? Yes
Day 3: Morning walks before leaving the Warrumbungles
With plenty more bushwalking to do, start early on Sunday morning to get a few walks in before the long drive back to Sydney.
The chilly overnight temperatures and early morning start did leave frost on the car, but it quickly melted in the sun.
Things to do in the Warrumbungles on day two:
Fans Horizon Walk
If you’re looking for a climbing challenge, this is it. While the actually elevation gain is only about a third of what Breadknife and Grand High Tops throws at you, this 200 metre vertical ascent is over a much shorter distance.
The out-and-back trail is only about 3.5 kilometres in total, and much of the out portion is all stairs.
At the top, there is a lovely view over the surrounding bush and hills, but it’s nothing compared to what some of the other tracks have to offer.
Of course, what goes up does come down and the second half is just descending down the same track.
Recommended? No.
Belougery Split Rock via Burbie Fire Trail Loop
A great combination of climbing up rocky hillsides, panoramic views, and a pleasant finish on a fire trail, this walk packs in a punch in its 4.5 kilometre.
The loop walk takes you up and around Belougery Split Rock. Lacking thick trees and bush, much of the trail is quite exposed offering distractingly beautiful views of the surrounds.
Toward the peak, the walk does become a bit more of a scramble, but doesn’t feel unsafe.
From here, across the rugged hills, you can see Sliding Spring Observatory, part of the dark sky park, on one of the peaks. (Pictured above)
Recommended? Yes
Tara Cave
The furthest location into Warrumbungle National Park on this itinerary, Tara Cave
It’s a flat, mostly-accessible track that’s kid-friendly. Toward the cave before the turn-around point, the path turns into an elevated boardwalk where you’ll be treated to nicer views of the park than you got on the ground.
The boardwalk ends at a caged-in-cave, sacred to the Gamilaraay people. According to the New South Wales management plan for the national park, guided tours by locals are offered here, however nothing is currently listed on the national parks website.
Recommended: If you have time
Warrumbungles weekend in a nutshell
Getting there: Driving is the best option for getting to Warrumbungle National Park, whether you’re taking your own vehicle or hiring one. While you’ll be able to get to Coonabarabran with a combination of busses and trains, it’s not ideal for a weekend away due to the time it takes.
From Sydney, it’s about a six-hour drive either via the Hunter Valley or Blue Mountains. From Newcastle, it’s just shy of five hours.
Some local tours are available if you don’t drive or have access to a car, including these options from the Warrumbungle Mountain Motel.
Where to stay: I stayed at the Imperial Hotel, which was one of the more affordable options in town. While it certainly did the trick, I can’t say I recommend this pub stay. As I mentioned above, perhaps the renovated rooms are nicer, but as I didn’t stay in one, I can’t say for certain.
What to do: Walk, walk and walk some more! While there are plenty of tracks to do, these are the best bushwalks near Warrumbungle National Park.
- Sculptures in the Scrub (3 kilometres)
- Sandstone Caves Walking Track ( 1.7 kilometres)
- Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk (14.5 kilometres)
- Sunset at Whitegum Lookout (1 kilometrer)
- Belougery Split Rock via Burbie Fire Trail Loop (4.5 kilometres)
