What is an Iced VoVo?
An Iced VoVo is an Australian confection consisting of a rich shortbread cookie that’s covered with two strips of pale pink fondant icing (or marshmallow) and one strip of seedless raspberry jam (jelly), all topped with a generous sprinkling of desiccated coconut (shredded coconut).
What is the origin of Iced VoVo?
In 1906, the Australian biscuit manufacturer, Arnott’s, trademarked the name “Iced Vo-Vo”. However, Arnott’s had actually been making VoVos for at least two years prior to this, as evidenced in a 1904 advertisement for their “Famous Newcastle Biscuits”.
In this advert, the cookies were described as being “delicious and dainty” but there was no mention of them being covered with fondant, jam, or coconut. The name, Iced Vovo, didn’t appear until two years later.
According to some, however, Arnott’s was not the first company to make these cookies. In 1905, a New Zealand manufacturer, Aulsebrooks, which had been making cookies since the 1860s, was advertising its Iced VoVos, along with its Mikado biscuits, which, possibly coincidentally, is the name of a jam and marshmallow-topped biscuit that’s still sold in Ireland today.
It’s been suggested that when Aulsebrooks moved from New Zealand to Australia in 1890, they took their VoVo recipe with them, and that perhaps the Arnott’s version was inspired by this.
Another claim is that Hardman’s, one of the top two major cookie manufacturers in Australia during the early 20th century, had been making Iced VoVos since before Arnott’s trademarked theirs. And that furthermore, Arnott’s only bought the rights to Iced VoVos in 1946, when they purchased Hardman’s.
However, given that Arnott’s trademarked their biscuit in 1906, this claim does not seem plausible.
Marshmallow or fondant?
It seems that a significant proportion of Australians, particularly older ones, are convinced that Iced VoVos used to have a marshmallow topping, and not a fondant one. Logically, given the name of the biscuit, this makes no sense.
In fact, Arnott’s actually state:
“Iced VoVo was first registered by Arnott’s in 1906 and has always contained a fondant topping, not a marshmallow topping. There were similar biscuits on the market, made by a different manufacturer that contained marshmallow, and we are often contacted about these biscuits.”
Moreover, according to Arnott’s, the marshmallow-topped cookies were made by a company called George Weston Foods.
That said, it appears that most of the consumers who grew up with Weston’s marshmallow version, take vehement exception to this information. Some swear that Arnott’s has changed the recipe, while others even go as far as to claim that the company spokespeople are in fact, lying, and that there is some kind of conspiracy afoot.
The fact remains though, that the cookies have always been called Iced VoVos, and not Mallow VoVos. Which apparently leads to great disappointment among those biting into one for the first time since their childhoods in the 1950s and 1960s.
It would seem that the plethora of mallow-topped cookies on the market these days, made by various manufacturers, are still referred to by Australians as the mythical Iced VoVos of their youth.
Other mallow-topped cookies
Strawberry Mallows, now made by Paradise Foods, are generally considered to be the marshmallow cookie so beloved of many Australian children, and so often conflated with Iced VoVos.
In 2003, Paradise Foods acquired all but three of George Weston Foods’ biscuit range. Ironically, Arnott’s bought the remaining three lines, which did not include Weston’s marshmallow cookies.
In the United Kingdom, Jacob’s makes the Jamboree, and in Ireland, its counterpart, Jam Mallows (sometimes known as Mikado), is manufactured by Boland’s.
Tips for making Iced VoVos
- Prick the shortbread cookies two or three times before placing them in the oven to stop them puffing up during baking.
- It’s easier to achieve a more consistent result by piping the marshmallow and jam onto the “wrong” side of the cookie. That is, the underside.
- Do make sure to give the piping bag a squeeze to expel any air. Air bubbles may result in a splatter of marshmallow, rather than a nicely-piped line.
- Work quickly because the marshmallow soon becomes unworkable. If it starts setting, empty the piping bag into the pan, and gently reheat.
- If the raspberry jam is reasonably fluid, it will not need to be warmed.
- Do leave the cookies out to set for at least an hour before eating. Overnight is even better.
Iced VoVo
Ingredients
For the dough
- 5 tablespoons butter cut into small cubes (at room temperature)
- ¾ cup icing sugar
- 1 egg
- ¾ cup all-purpose flour
- ¾ cup self-rising flour
For the filling
- 3 oz. pink marshmallows
- 2 tablespoons butter
- ⅓ cup icing sugar sifted
- 3 tablespoons desiccated coconut
- 1 cup raspberry jam without pieces, warmed
Equipment
- Baking sheep
- Parchment paper
- Stand mixer
- Fluted pastry wheel
Instructions
Pastry
- Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and lightly grease them.
- In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk the butter and icing sugar until light and fluffy.
- Mix the two flours, and sift them together.
- Using the flat beater, add the flours to the creamy mixture and mix very quickly.
- Transfer the mixture to a lightly floured work surface and lightly knead the dough very quickly to homogenize and smooth it.
- Wrap the dough with plastic wrap and let it rest in the refrigerator for 10 minutes.
- Spread the dough between 2 sheets of baking paper to a thickness of ⅙ inch (4 mm).
- Place the dough in the refrigerator and let it rest for 30 minutes.
- Using a fluted pastry wheel or a fluted cookie cutter, cut the dough into 24 1 x 2 inches (3 x 5 cm) rectangles.
- Place them on baking sheets lined with greased parchment paper, 1 inch (3 cm) apart.
- Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until lightly browned.
- Let cool on the baking sheets for 5 minutes, then transfer them to a wire rack to cool completely.
Filling
- In a non-stick saucepan, combine the marshmallows and butter.
- Stir over low heat until the mixture melts and is smooth.
- Add the icing sugar and mix well.
- Spread the coconut on a flat plate.
- Working as quickly as possible, spread a little icing on both sides of each cookie, leaving the central strip plain.
- Then place the two glazed sides on the coconut and shake off the excess.
- Spread the warmed jam on the center strip. And sprinkle with coconut.
- Repeat the operation until all the shortbread is used.
- Leave to dry for 1 hour before tasting.
Sources
Nice Cup of Tea and a Sit Down by Nicey & Wifey
Arnott’s
Wikipedia (EN) – Iced Vovos
Wikiwand
Food Ireland
Long White Kid
Venetian-Brit Nicole has always lived a nomadic existence, and has had 56 homes around the world. As a chef, she has cooked in pro kitchens in Thailand, India, and Britain, and has consulted on menus for restaurants & hotels from Japan to the USA. Her work has been featured in some of the world’s best-known publications, including Better Homes & Gardens, Grazia, Femina, Stylecaster, Buzzfeed, and The Guardian. At yumsome.com, she shares stories and recipes from her travels.
Blitzo says
So tasty and delicious super cold I love it.
Kate says
Where’d the egg go? You never said where to add it