SERIES 34 | Episode 29
We meet a market gardener who has turned a block in the burbs into a destination for chefs and plant-filled sanctuary for locals.
Sulyn Lam is a market gardener who specialises in herbs, but also grows a diverse range of fruit and vegetables. The garden is about an acre that flows around the house and down to a paddock for her goats.
Sulyn and her partner Rob have been here for over 30 years transforming a run-down house without a garden into a productive and peaceful space. “I thought I had a big job ahead of me. So, Rob and I started gardening up here together and then I started working on soil health and then I was like a little mole. I was underground for so many years and Rob used to say ‘what are doing out there. Nothing seemed to be happening, I was working on soil the whole time.”
Growing up growing food
Sulyn says, “I didn’t start at the outset to become a market gardener” but she was always interested in growing food as it was a natural part of her upbringing. “We had a Chinese dad and an Italian mum, and they always really valued fresh, good food and they also had a heritage of coming from families that grew vegetables in their home countries.
My mum came from Udinese in northern Italy and her family were growers, small producers basically of vegetables. And my dad, he came to Australia at the age of 15 or 16. He did experience famine through his village, and I think that really had a big influence on both his love of being able to produce food, being able to feed the family.”
Her mother, almost 90 now, lives in a care home in Victoria. Sulyn started sending her mum video updates on the garden to keep her connected to the joy of growing and to feel part of the process. Sulyn says her mum has left a legacy of seeing “the joy in the tiniest nuance in the natural world.”
“And my dad, I think he would have loved my garden as much as I do. I think we would have shared it with great joy had he lived longer.”
A passion for herbs
“I love herbs, I love using herbs. I feel as if it’s like not only do they taste superb and make things taste fantastic, I think we don’t make enough use of that. And so, I very much encourage people to sue herbs and lots of them.”
“There are so many types and I made it my mission to learn to grow them really well. In the past I couldn’t get them to live through winter but now the soil is good enough. I mounded it up high and created microclimates so it’s warmer.” There are rows and rows of parsley, coriander, sorrel, chives, thyme, mint, basil, and a particular favourite, lovage.
Community
Sulyn’s fresh produce and enthusiasm for sharing has attracted the attention of local chefs who buy her produce. “Chefs are more comfortable these days using herbs as more of a feature, and if you have plenty you don’t have to be lean with them.” She has formed close relationships with these chefs, and they encourage each other to try new things.
Her garden is often occupied by local volunteers, neighbours, and family who enjoy the opportunity to get their hands in the soil, see delicious results, and learn from an expert.
“I do have people coming to help me in the garden, and they've come from all walks of life and all ages. Sometimes they might talk about their week, and there's something about being involved in physical activity that allows you to talk heart to heart. And we'll often end up having a lot of laughs and sometimes sharing some personal stories as well.”
“There is something that touches me deeply about growing food, for me and feeding them. There’s something so visceral about drawing something concrete from this tiny prospect of dust that you’ve placed in the ground. And here you are, here’s a meal for you to grow your body.”
Filmed on Muwinina Country | South Hobart, Tas