Sweden's unspoilt summer isle

There's a strong sense of independence here and an old-fashioned community spirit. Many of the 58,000 islanders are still yeomen. When the Vikings were off wreaking havoc, the people of Gotland were paddling their longboats to Russia and Constantinople and their legacy is an exotic larder. Medieval imports are still found in delicacies such as cardamom buns and saffranspannkaka, saffron rice pudding served with cream and dewberry jam. Ancient grain varieties that flourish here can be traced back to the Bronze Age.

Every excursion promised fresh curiosities, from abandoned windmills to medieval churches. Bleak but beautiful, the rocky, reedy terrain in the north is punctuated by curly-grey-fleeced sheep, the distinctive, diagonally-bound rough-wood fences and the occasional café such as Kutens Bensin with its vintage trucks parked outside. Hunting for fossils among the raukar, the island's famous sea-sculpted limestone formations, won hands down on any over-priced theme-park outing. And it is true to say that the stretches of white-sand dunes and crystal waters could rival any Mediterranean coast (despite being a few degrees colder).

Signs for 'loppis' abound (loppa in Swedish means 'flea'), and many owners hold garage sales even if they're not at home. This open-door ethos extends to the honesty-box farm shops. When we paused in Burgsvik for the loppi, stallholders urged us to help ourselves from the piles of bric-à-brac. 'Really? We can have any three toys for free?' marvelled Alfie. Recycling and sustainability are paramount here, and the islanders are justifiably proud of their pristine environment. It takes a little longer to get here than other bits of Sweden, but that's part of the adventure. Gotland exists in a free-spirited world of its own.

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Where to stay

Jakobs Gotland

This is a holiday house with the soul of a boutique hotel. A fully fitted kitchen, larder and large dining-room table mean entertaining here is a pleasure - and there's a great barbecue space outside. It's well suited for a multigenerational family, with two spacious double bedrooms and a single room, although with only one bathroom downstairs you won't want the house to be too full; the delicate decor and spiral staircase are not suitable for toddlers. Owners Anna and Andi Granger also have exciting plans for the huge barn at the back.

Eksta Jakobs 409, Klintehamn (jakobsgotland.com); from £600 a week

Fabriken Furillen

A mountain of gravel marks the unlikely and dramatic setting for this 17-room hotel and restaurant at an abandoned quarry. Set on a remote eastern peninsula, it's hard to believe Furillen was in military use until the 1990s. The hotel is the brainchild of photographer Johan Hellström, and every inch of the interior is staggeringly stylish. Concrete floors and heavy chains are nods to its previous life, but instead of the whirr of industry, the only noises you're likely to hear in the restaurant are the clatter of heavy cutlery on handmade Scandinavian pottery and the murmur of discerning guests appreciating the artfully arranged ingredients that were plucked just metres from their seats. Sheppskult bicycles encourage you to explore this hauntingly beautiful terrain. For utter solitude, book one of the contemporary freestanding suites in the woods.

Lärbro (+46 498 223040; furillen.com); doubles from about £200

Stelor Hotel

Karin Cedergren has transformed a few farm buildings on the main road south of Visby into a popular restaurant with six stylish bedrooms. It's come a long way since 2012 when Cedergren, a teacher by day, was dishing up traditional dishes such as home-made soups. There's a two-acre plot of woodland with rope swings and curly haired Gutabaggen ram to feed, and you're only minutes from the beach. Instead of hi-tech design, there's yoga and cinema screenings in the barn. Don't miss the Sunday barbecue of juicy lamb and fresh-herb salads -produce here is extra sweet as Gotland gets so much more sun than the rest of Sweden - or the breakfasts of nut-rich muesli, smoked hams and kicking filter coffee.

Västergarn Stelor 117 (+46 707 960128; stelor.se); doubles from £190

Where to eat

Djupvik

Set back from the road and facing out to sea, this hotel restaurant has an outdoor deck and a small plunge pool. Light-filled and family-friendly, it is celebrated for its sea-inspired and seasonal menu (asparagus in spring, wild truffles in November). Be sure to seek out the Viking memorial in the neighbouring field; traditionally when a longboat was lost at sea, an outline of the ship was created with each stone representing a man lost.

Klintehamn (+46 498 244272; djupvikhotel.com); dinner about £90 for two

Hemma Hos Ulrika

Opened last year by charismatic cookbook writer Ulrika Davidsson, this converted pigsty holds healthy supperclub dinners throughout the summer; there's no menu, just whatever Ulrika has picked up from market (Ronehamn fish, Gotland lamb) or her garden that day, as well as the occasional guest speaker.

Hemse (+46 498 700 914440; hemmahosulrika.se); dinner about £65 for two

Konditori Norrgatt

A 1940s wood-panelled bakery and corner cafeteria so fantastically dated that it's hipper than anything you'll find in London's Dalston. Cabinets packed with sweet cookies, just-baked cakes, and generously filled sandwiches can be picked up for fika, the Swedish take on an elevenses-style snack.

Broväg 1, Visby (+46 498 213234; norrgatt.se)

Bakfickan

Meaning 'back pocket', this small restaurant makes simple but tasty traditional dishes such as fish soup with aioli, smoked shrimps on toast and pickled Baltic herring with caviar sauce. You can also buy seafood (fillet of perch, perhaps) to take home.

Stora Torget (+46 498 271807; bakfickan-visby.nu). Dinner about £60 for two

Crêperie Tati

Kutens Bensin may look like a 1950s gas station with its yard of rusty trucks, and a motorbike once ridden by James Dean, but the restaurant is so quirky it's an Instagrammable fantasy. You won't mind having to queue up for galettes oozing savoury cheese fillings, and indulgent pancakes with names such as 'Sympathy for the Devil'. Swedes make up most of the visitors to Fårö, and they're a handsome bunch.

Broskogs, Fårö (+46 70 203 8924; facebook.com/kutens.bensin)

Where to shop and play

Visby

Park outside this pastel-toned town on the coast, and take a stroll through its cobbled streets to the main square. Walk down Hästgatsbacken and into H10 Café & Bar (+46 498 249410) and you'll discover locally made furniture by GAD and Acne clothes, as well as an art gallery. Akantus (Sankt Hansplan; +46 498 212888) is an inspired capsule of old and new, from Klippan throws to vintage crockery. Head to Klinten, the highest point in the Old Town, for a view of the cathedral and over the rooftops to the sea. There's a guided tour of the town every Wednesday and Saturday at 11am, leaving from the Gotland Active Store on Hamngätan.

Leva Kungslador

Every element in this creative complex exemplifies a design ethos where form always matches function. Hausfabrik is a homeware store that manages to make string, paper clips and gardening tools look exotic, especially when teamed with coffee-table architectural books and colourful soft furnishings. There's a hammock by the horsechestnut-sheltered tree house and play area, and an art studio.

Toftavägen 20 (+46 498 288058; levakungslador.se)

Burgsvik Loppis

Tucked away east of the main road in town, this hut and warehouse is crammed full of curios, cushions and kitsch trinkets. You might wish you had a trailer to carry everything back home.

Toggas

Right by the entrance to the airport, this is the best outlet for thrift-shop treasures. Oily hardware segues to chic homeware via Swedish second-hand vinyl and memorabilia.

Lummelundsväg 49, Visby (+46 498 50184; toggas.se)

Bergman Centre

Ingmar Bergman is considered by many to be the greatest film director of all time; cineastes make the pilgrimage to this cultural centre celebrating his life and work. Bergman shot seven films during his 40 years living on Fårö; Passion of Anna (1969) conveys the setting enchantingly in black and white.

Fårö (+46 498 226868; bergmancenter.se)

Etelhems Krukmakeri

See how the Gotlandic clay is extracted then make your own pots at one of the country's oldest potteries - if yours turn out badly you can buy one from the shop.

Etelhem Tänglings 711, Stånga (+46 498 494035; krukmakeri.com); open between 1 June-31 August

Körsbärsgården Konsthall & Skulpturpark

A former botanical garden transformed into an art hall, this has an intriguing mix of ceramics, artworks and micro-installations: it's currently showcasing Japan's Gutai group; in July there's a show of Sweden's newest talents. Snoop around the handpicked, reasonably priced collection of interior and design objects - from toiletries to glassware - then treat yourself to home-made carrot cake in the café.

Sundre Västergårde 135, Burgsvik (+46 498 498229; korsbarsgarden.se)

Eksta

Follow the road along this rocky coast and look out to the Stora and Lilla Karlsö islands. Explore the caves at Stora Förvar carved from limestone cliffs, and hunt for fossils on the pebbly beach at Hoburgen, the southernmost tip of the island.

Getting there

Norwegian Air and SAS Scandinavian Airlines fly from London and various regional UK airports to Stockholm. The flight from Stockholm to Gotland takes about 35 minutes: Destination Gotland transports cars and passengers from Nynäshamn and Oskarshamn on the mainland on a three-hour ferry ride. The easiest way to get around on Gotland is by car: there are several hire companies both at the airport and the ferry terminal in Visby. For more information, visit Inspiration Gotland

This feature first appeared in Condé Nast Traveller June 2014