Dodge AT4

Hey there everyone,
So, I'm a glutton for punishment and purchased myself another old truck, a 1967 Dodge AT4 660 to help with some problems I currently have, all the while telling myself that this was the most reasonable solution (it probably wasn't). This in itself creates a problem, this truck isn't roadworthy.

For the most part its somewhat simple problems but the electrical side is a mess. I was curious to see if anyone would have a wiring diagram for one? Someone before me has had a go and there are so many wires under the dash that you would think this thing was from the 2000's. Let alone all the custom wires added in along with fuses and whatnot.
Also I am having trouble finding replacement headlights and I do need to do some rust repair, does anyone manufacture a weld in repair panel?

I am sure I will have thousands of questions to come but these are my main concerns at the moment..





Cheers

Are you sure it is a 660 , looks to long in the wheelbase , more like a 675 or 690. Better check and see if the chassis has been lengthened...Could be an issue with RWC.
Good luck with it , plenty of experts on this forum , who are familiar with Dodges

Jerry, it might pay to add your location to you profile, that will give you much better chance of getting local help, even parts. Good start with a photo, there are never too many, and some info about the engine gear box diff is always informative for the experts. And where about is the rust, some of these critters have notorious rust spots that only a magician can fix. On the comparable inter the front of the bonnet was often fine lace and heavy bog and the plenum chamber too If I remember rightly.

The wiring should not be too tricky, is it colour coded... or like the inters, all one colour but with good eyesight (or strong specs) you can read a number on each wire.

Good luck.

Mate I have an AT4 and the headlights burnt out within about 30 seconds of turning them on. Apparently some gas leaks from the "sealed" beams over time, mine had not been used for 30 years, that allows quick oxidation of the filaments and as Elton say's work like a candle in the wind. I bought some from thebay. I upgraded to H4 but they look the same, had some issues with fitment but they work great.
Yes the wiring is rubbish, I only found one fuse in the entire truck and that was in the light switch. Gawd knows what it does. Some of the wires changed colour several times from front to back so I just continued the tradition :whistle:
The plenum chamber is a hot spot for rust, reckon I spent 3 days digging out mouse houses then a few more making patch panels. At least I can drive in the rain without wearing rubber boots now. Most I have seen also have seized/bent bonnet hinges so have a good look there, lots of cleaning and lube. DPO had reinforced the bonnet and made double width teeth on mine, thanks ol mate.

Hy-way truck parts in Sydney has a great selection of headlights and now bezels. Melb and Brisbane branches

Hey, sorry its taken a while to get back here.
I'll have to get the tape measure out and check the wheelbase, the chassis looks unaltered so a mistake on my end for sure.
I've been scouting around for a cab to buy/raid. I have a mate in town here (Toowoomba) that has a dodge cab but its showing rust in the same places. Most I can patch myself but I feel that the roof may be beyond me. I have a photo of it for entertainment.
The truck is a 318 V8, 5 Speed, 2 Speed Diff. Engine runs sound, needs a bigger fuel pump. Gearbox is okay, couple oil leaks but otherwise it only have a slight grind going into 4th, a syncro I suspect. Diff has a leaking pinion seal and the switch for the diff is missing so I'm stuck in low range for now. I may test the shift unit if I get a chance tomorrow. I've sourced my mirrors from Multispares and my lights from JAS Oceania. The blokes at JAS did an awesome job, headlights came in at a whopping $13 each. I will have to check Hy-Way for body parts still. FleetSpares have been awesome with finding suspension and steering parts.
I have a photo of the I.D plate on the diff if anyone would be able to decifer it for me? I know its a Rockwell but I am interested in the ratios. Do they work as a splitter or range change?

Cheers
(I am having trouble getting the attachments link to work so hopefully later, until then I'll sift through some HCVC Forum history)

You can put the diff in high by taking the plate (3 screws) off the changemotor,and simply screwing the shaft up or down,while turning the tailshaft back and forth on the lash.Easy to tell when its in neutral or gear.Dont want to upset you,but it might be jumping out of high,being why its stuck in low.The ratios should be stamped on the ally plate,but will be something like 6--1 &8---1.The diff should work as a splitter.Truck boxes should be driven as though they arent synchro,by matching speeds.You cant just jam the change through like a car.Used to be called "hot shifting"and would get you sacked.In the days when you could actually sack anyone.

As the Dodgy bros mention,be very careful not to spring or distort the bonnet hinge/ spring setup.When the hinges are sprung,its near impossible to fix.If the teeth are chopped out,they re knackered.

The bonnet hinges are actually in really good shape and work beautifully. the catch at the front leaves a bit to be desired but I feel that the condition of the bonnet itself doesn't help that.
Thank you for the advice John, driving old trucks is a dying art these days. Hopefully the weather clears up so I can go have a tinker with that changemotor. I have that photo of the I.D plate, its not in great condition but it does have what looks like 616 and 766 stamped on it, possibly the ratios? 6.16 and 7.66?









_{after you select your photos you have to put your cursor where you want your picture and click on insert and when you post your picture will be there..... youre doing ok....} Sarge

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Hi Dodgeydude,
Just seen your comments on Dodge hinges being bent. I just recently sold a set of hinges on ebay because I had another additional set that I didn't need, To cut a long story short the set I was left with which I thought was a good set when I attached to the bonnet one hinge wouldn't let the bonnet down even though it looked ok including teeth. Fortunately I have acquired another set that I saw working properly so I will wait and see if they work ok. I also had a bonnet that was rather crap and have just got hold of another one in good condition so should be right this time. with the surplus pair of hinges after I change them over I am curious as to what you meant when you said DPO had reinforced the bonnet and doubled the width of the teeth. Who were you referring to who is DPO. Thank you for any info you can offer.
Regards
Alan