I bought this plant past summer. It is healthy and growing nicely; note new light green growth toward light. However, no new traps grew. You can notice the stringy end of leaves but no growth. The traps on it were on when purchased. The photo of tag is all that came with it. Garden shop had no suggestions how to stimulate trap growth. Have you any suggestion? I recently started fertilizing with miracle grow all purpose. by the way, I saw two traps closed for a few days past summer. Thanks — Al Molchan.
It appears that Al has a tropical pitcher plant. I’ve never grown one but I have grown other carnivorous plants and I think I see a few things that Al can check to provide more optimal growing conditions. I found several sources concerning growing this plant and found on a website called Gardener’s Path. See How to Grow Tropical Nepenthes Pitcher Plants Indoors (https://gardenerspath.com/plants/houseplants/grow-nepenthes-pitcher-plants/), By meeting the basic needs of the pitcher plants, you will increase the chances of increasing the number of traps.
Container: Use glazed ceramic instead of clay to avoid potential problems with natural salts. If you use plastic, take care not to overwater as evaporation can be slow.
Soil: The ideal soil would be a home nut of sphagnum moss, perlite and orchid bark in equal amounts. Soil mixes specifically for nepenthes may be available but is difficult to locate. Soil for carnivorous plants is a bit too heavy and retains too much moisture. You would have to lighten soil and be very careful with watering.
Light: Indirect but bright light is best so place near a sunny window but not directly in the sunlight. Eight to 12 hours of indirect natural light or supplement with artificial light. Keep lights a foot to a foot and a half away from the plant.
Water: These plants are very particular about water. Do not use bottled or tap water because of the potential for dissolved nutrients and minerals. Use distilled water.
Humidity: Supplement humidity with a tray filled with rocks and water or use a humidifier. Fine misting is an option but do not drench the plant.
Temperature: Keep warm, between 75 and 90 F. Avoid letting the temperature drop below 60 F or you may experience die-off.
Air circulation: Good airflow is essential as the roots need the air to prevent root rot and fungal diseases.
Feeding: The pitcher plant eats small insects (mealworm or small crickets) in traps that are at least an inch wide put one or two per week but do not overfeed. Do not fertilize unless you are very familiar with growing pitcher plants.
So, if Al is satisfied that his conditions meet the plant’s requirements, I would mention that this plant is considered a slow grower. Additionally, I would flush the plant container to clear out any fertilizer remnants and avoid adding more. Note that the fertilizer Al used is noted for having a high nitrogen content; this generally stimulates leafy growth so the new leaves are not surprising. However, this plant prefers low nutrient soil with little organic material.
Al, stop feeding the plant and be patient.
In Our Garden
After a few weeks of shopping, I believe I have found a raised planter that meets my needs. If you are shopping for one and, like me, want to limit bending and kneeling, be sure to check the height of the planter. I found several I liked but they were 25 inches and lower — too short for my taste.
Another consideration that limited my selection was the depth of the planting box. While I recognize that potting mix is heavy, I was not willing to trade weight for planting depth. Most of the planters I looked at had a soil depth of about five inches. Too shallow for many plants. I found a few with eight to nine inches and picked my favorite from among them.
Drainage is also a concern but depending on the composition of the planter, can be remedied after purchase. Wood or plastic containers can be drilled to allow proper drainage.
I am not thrilled with the quality of the wood often used in such containers but plan to treat the planter with a sealer safe for food crops.
The container I settled on is about four feet long and I plan to purchase two. One for herbs and the other for plants with great scents. They are destined for the deck outside the kitchen — a few steps to cut fresh herbs and a location where the sweet scents will perfume the deck and also drift into the house.
Sue Kittek is a freelance garden columnist, writer, and lecturer. Send questions to Garden Keeper at grdnkpr@gmail.com or mail: Garden Keeper, The Morning Call, PO Box 1260, Allentown, PA 18105.
Week in the Garden
Planting: Start seed for broccoli, Brussel sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, petunias and Chinese cabbage. Finish sowing: Endive, escarole and kale. Next week: start seeds for start: Snapdragon, statice, strawflowers and tobacco. Take cuttings of African violets and geraniums. Sow seeds that require a cold period for germination.
Seasonal: Check for heaved plants, particularly when soil temperatures are fluctuating between freezing and thawing. Order catalogs or mark online sites for January browsing. Check germination rate for all stored seeds and replace those that perform badly with fresh seed this year. Get seeds for plants you intend to grow from seed. Keep pathways, driveways and guttering clear of dead plants and leaves. Cut the flower stalks of amaryllis plants after the flowers fade but keep the greens warm and watered in a sunny area if you plan on keeping them until next year.
Chores: Place deicing materials, shovels, scrapers and other winter tools in a convenient space. Maintain winter equipment. Use fresh gas and check for damage before or after each use. Clean and store seed starting containers and other pots. Check supplies for next spring and note or purchase as needed Use a humidifier, humidity trays or misting to increase the humidity around your houseplants. Mark off beds, new plantings, plants that are late to break dormancy in the spring and delicate plants. Stay off them when dealing with snow removal. Apply winter mulch. Drain and store garden hoses. Provide deer, rabbit and groundhog protection for vulnerable plants. Reapply taste or scent deterrents. Clean and fill bird feeders regularly. Clean up spilled seed and empty hulls. Dump, scrub and refill birdbaths at least once a week. Consider a heater to provide water during cold weather. Clear gutters and direct rainwater runoff away from house foundations.
Tools, equipment, and supplies: Inventory, clean, disinfect, restock, and store seed starting and potting supplies. Clean and repair spring/summer tools. Replace or send for service now.
Safety: Photograph storm damage before clearing or repairing for insurance claims and file promptly. Avoid tick and mosquito bites: Ticks are active any time temperatures are about 50 degrees F or warmer. Use an insect repellent containing Deet on the skin. Apply a permethrin product to clothing. Wear light-colored clothing, long sleeves, hats and long pants when working in the garden. Stay hydrated. Drink water or other non-caffeinated, nonalcoholic beverages. Apply sunscreen, wear hats and limit exposure to sun. Wear closed-toe shoes and gloves; use eye protection; and use ear protection when using any loud power tools.
Sue Kittek is a freelance garden columnist, writer, and lecturer.
