If there was one thing retiring chief winemaker and general manager Bill Sneddon was determined to do, it was give his beloved Allandale winery at Lovedale the cellar door it deserved.
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Sneddon had been with Allandale for 40 years, and in that time there had been virtually no change to the cellar door set-up, which basically was just sectioned-off area of the winery itself.
"In the old days you could pretty much get away with a table and chairs and a spit bucket," Sneddon said with a laugh. "But that's just not good enough anymore and we needed to update, that's for sure.
"We've been aware of that for quite a long time, it was just a matter of doing something about it.
"In the summer days it would get hot and you'd be moving the fan around trying to keep your customers cool . . . it was challenging all right."
Well, no more. Today Allandale features a modern, high-spec tasting room with massive, double-glazed ceiling-to-floor windows that make the most of the sweeping views of the Brokenback Range, polished concrete floors and blackbutt woodwork. There are also offices, and a members' tasting room, again with spectacular views, and a two-way fire.
Total cost of the new set-up, which took seven months to complete, will run north of $1.5 million.
One of the truly good guys of the Hunter wine scene, Sneddon and wife Sally moved to Young late last year to be near his children and grandkids.
"Moving was a really big step because we both grew up in the Hunter. It has always been our home, so when the grandkids get too old and don't want to spend time with us - which is natural - we'll probably move back, maybe to Newcastle," he said.
"I'm just glad I was able to get it done before I retired, even though I only just managed it by the skin of my teeth.
"You know I always wanted an office, and the day I'm walking out for the last time, I finally get an office," he said. "What are the odds?"
Sneddon leaves - although he is still a director - knowing the operation is in safe hands.
"To be honest, for the last five years or so Alex Woods has been the chief winemaker in everything but name," he said. "So the winemaking side of things will be the smoothest transition.
"We have loyal members who have been with us for years, so I don't expect there will be any significant changes, but obviously it's up to him now to put his own stamp on it.
"And he will . . . I have absolute confidence in him."
So how is retirement?
"I'm loving being around the kids and the grandkids but I suspect I'm probably suffering a little Relevance Deprivation Syndrome. The phone's not ringing . . ."
WINE REVIEWS
STYLE PERFECTED
Allandale Chardonnay, 2022
$27
This is proudly old school, full bodied and with a decent hit of oak. There's white peach and coconut flavour with the fruit coming from a number of Hunter Valley vineyards. There's a citrus note in there too, bringing that sense of crispness and balance. Allandale has been producing this style of chardonnay for years and it has a fiercely loyal following. If it ain't broke ...
EASY-DRINKING VALUE
Allandale Pinot Gris, 2023
$25
Bright lemon with a salmon tinge, this is a single-vineyard wine from the Hilltops region, which does a lot of those Mediterranean varieties really well. There's citrus, red apple and spicy pear flavours, all clean and bright, with a fresh, zesty finish. This sits firmly in the easy drinking spectrum, and terrific value for money.
RICH HILLTOPS FLAVOUR
Allandale GSM, 2022
$32
Once again, the fruit for this is from the Hilltops region. The Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre blend (GSM) is best associated with southern France. It is usually medium bodied, but generously flavoured and rich, and this is right on cue. Mixed fruits, from cherry and raspberry through to blueberries and earthy licorice.
