The Tatler guide to Sydney

How to explore Sydney like a local
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The Sydney Opera HouseGetty Images

Seductive and vibrant, Sydney is the chic capital of New South Wales. With its spectacular beauty, endless sandy beaches, top-notch restaurants and sweeping views, it’s no wonder the Duke and Duchess of Sussex chose to come here as part of their 16-day royal tour of Australia. Here we give you the ultimate lowdown...

Where to stay

Admiralty HouseGetty Images

Harry and Meghan’s first stop is Admiralty House, where the Queen, the Duke of Edinburgh, the Prince of Wales and the Duchess of Cornwall and Cambridges have stayed in recent years. The sprawling harbourside mansion is the official residence of the Governor-General of Australia. The lush grounds are perfect for the Sussexes to stretch their legs and admire the commanding views across the harbour before resting their royal heads in the famously comfortable bedrooms.

The Four Seasons SydneyElbow Room Productions

As for hotels, the international big players have bagged the best spots in this fair city. The Four Seasons is a reputable favourite with a marble lobby and dramatic staircase sweeping up to the spa and restaurant. It’s in The Rocks, walking distance from the Museum of Contemporary Art and the Sydney Opera House. For jaw-dropping views of the city and harbour, the Intercontinental is hard to beat. The Obamas stay in the bulletproof suite when they’re in town.

Where to eat

The Boathouse Palm BeachInstagram/theboathousegroup

For glamorous places to eat within inches of the waves, Sydney sets the bar high. Start with sunrise walk along Palm Beach at low tide when the beach is quiet, save for a few enthusiastic runners like Tatler cover star Nicole Kidman, who is a regular during the summer months. The Boathouse, just behind the main beach, has been a favourite with locals since it opened in 2008. To bag a table on the deck and watch the seaplanes land, get there when it opens at 7am. Feast on the fare that Sydney does best: tropical fruit, proper coffee and bacon and egg rolls, followed by seafood platters and buckets of prawns later in the day.

Perched on the bank of the Hawksbury River, Berowra Waters Inn is sophisticated and discreet. The sandstone, tin and glass pavilion is only accessible by water. Choose between a scenic drive through Aussie bushland followed by short ferry ride or a quick, stunning seaplane flight over the Harbour. The degustation menu is good, really good, and not overly fussy. Royal visitors and mere mortals alike could while away a blissful afternoon sipping Sauvignon Blanc from the Yarra Valley, listening to the buzz of cicadas and watching the waves gently lapping the shore.

Bondi IcebergsGetty Images

Bondi Icebergs is a Sydney institution where bright young things congregate. Their New Year’s Day party is notoriously exclusive, full-to-bursting with models, socialites and visiting celebrities putting resolutions on hold for one more day of dancing and decadence. The Dining Room and Bar overlooks Bondi Beach and two striking ocean pools, a stunning backdrop for long lunches, dinners and cocktails. At the other end of the beach, North Bondi Fish and Sean’s Panorama are excellent.

For effortless cool, Justin Hemmes is to Sydney what Richard Caring is to London. His bars and restaurants, coincidentally including Ivy in the city, dominate the Sydney social scene from the Northern Beaches to the southern shires. Fred’s in Paddington revolves around a central open kitchen and feels like the chic home of your coolest friend. Mr Wong does modern Cantonese-style food in a larger than life way serving over 80 dishes to 240 people over two levels.

Quay restaurantInstagram/quayrestaurant

For views of the harbour and some of the best food in Australia Aria and Quay restaurants in Circular Quay are hard to beat. Bennelong, in the Opera House, has long been the toast of Sydney’s discerning foodies. The buzzy restaurants along Woolloomoolloo Wharf are equally fabulous. When it comes to sensational vegetarian and vegan fare, perennially popular Yulli’s in Surry Hills has it licked.

BennelongInstagram/bennelong_sydney

What to see

Sculptures by the Sea, 18 October – 4 November.
The annual outdoor exhibition transforms a two-kilometre stretch of coast from Bondi to Tamarama beaches into a natural art gallery. A hundred sculptures by local and international artists make the most of the scenic route, part of a 10km cliff top track linking two of Sydney’s best beaches. Walk the track and you’ll see historic cemeteries, rock pools, Aboriginal sites and local cafes. Look for whales heading south to Antarctica.

BridgeClimb

The BridgeClimb at Sydney Harbour Bridge is a must. Choose a clear and dry day to climb to the top of it and admire the spectacular scenery. If you fear heights, know that you’re always attached to safety cables.

Taronga ZooGetty Images

Less than 24 hours after arriving in Sydney and announcing their baby news, the Duke and Duchess of Sussex opened the Taronga Institute of Science and Learning at Taronga Zoo. The zoo is a worthy tourist attraction in its own right. Boasting one of the best views in Sydney, it’s home to over 4,000 animals including two new baby koalas called Harry and Meghan.

Where to shop

The single best shopping district in Sydney is The Intersection in Paddington. It’s a who’s who of Australia’s global fashion map. Amble along charming tree-lined streets to browse new collections from Zimmerman, Scanlan and Theodore, Camilla and Marc, Ginger and Smart, Jac and Jack and more. Kim and Kanye have been spotted in the area, as have Kate Hudson, Alexa Chung, Paris Hilton and Princess Mary of Denmark.