Kakadu National Park Visitor Guide and Maps - Free

Welcome to the Aboriginal Lands ofKakaduNational ParkVisitor Guideand Maps

Welcome to KakaduThe Board of Management and park staff welcome you to Kakadu. On behalf ofthe Aboriginal traditional owners, we hope you will enjoy learning about culture,land management and caring for country.Kakadu is a cultural landscape. It was shaped by the spiritual ancestors ofAboriginal people during the Creation Time. These ancestors or ‘first people’journeyed across the country creating the landforms, plants, animals and Bininj/Mungguy (Aboriginal people). They brought with them laws to live by: ceremony,language, kinship and ecological knowledge. They taught Bininj/Mungguy how tolive with the land and look after the country.The name ‘Kakadu’ comes from an Aboriginal floodplain language called Gagudjuwhich was one of the languages spoken in the north of the park at the beginningof the twentieth century. Although languages such as Gagudju and Limilngan areno longer regularly spoken, descendants of these language groups are still living inKakadu. Aboriginal languages used in the park today include Kunwinjku from thenorth-eastern region, Gun-djeihmi from the central region and Jawoyn from thesouthern region.Kakadu National Park is a Commonwealth Reserve covering almost 20 000 squarekilometres, and includes the traditional lands of a number of Aboriginal clangroups. Kakadu is managed jointly by its Aboriginal traditional owners and theAustralia Government Department of Environment and Heritage.'If you respect the land,then you will feel the land.Your experience will be one that youcannot get anywhere else in the world.'Brian Baruwei - Wurrkbarbar clan.Aboriginal traditional owner.Park LawsKakadu National Park is a Commonwealth Reserve under the EnvironmentProtection and Biodiversity Conservation Act 1999. As a result, the laws inKakadu differ in some ways from other areas within the Northern Territory. Formore information please call the Bowali Visitor Centre on (08) 8938 1120.Bininj (pronounced Bin-ing) is a Kunwinjku and Gun-djeihmi word,Mungguy (pronounced Moong-gooy) is a Jawoyn word. Both are similar tothe English word man and depending on the context can mean man, male,person or Aboriginal people.23

Finding your wayThis guide is divided into seven visitor areas. Each area is illustrated with a smallmap and a brief description about the places of interest. Unless otherwise stated,access is 2WD and generally open all year.Information BayContentsIntroductionKakadu, a World Heritage AreaIntroduction to Bininj/Mungguy (Aboriginal) waysPronouncing Bininj/Mungguy namesKakadu's habitatsThe role of fireMaps & Places of InterestKakadu National Park Map1. South Alligator Area2. Jabiru Area3. East Alligator Area4. Nourlangie Area5. Yellow Water Area6. Mary River Area7. Jim Jim Area677810112141618202224Information BayRanger StationSafetyCrocodilesSurviving the tropicsDriving hintsActivitiesExploring Aboriginal cultureBoating and fishingBushwalkingViewing the wildlife25262728293031Wheelchair accessTracks and toilets suitable for wheelchair access areprovided at the Bowali Visitor Centre and WarradjanAboriginal Cultural Centre; Merl, Muirella Park, Mardugaland Gunlom camping areas; and at Ubirr and Nourlangieart sites. Mamukala and Yellow Water have wheelchairaccess tracks but no toilet facilities.4Suggested itinerariesFurther information53233

Kakadu, a World Heritage AreaIntroduction to Bininj/Mungguy (Aboriginal) waysKakadu National Park is one of the few World Heritage Areas that have beenlisted for both their cultural and natural heritage. The park protects one of thefinest and most extensive collections of rock art in the world, a tangible reminderof Aboriginal people’s long and continuing association with the area.Kakadu protects examples of most of Australia's Top End habitats, including theentire catchment of a large tropical river, the South Alligator. From this range ofhabitats stems a remarkable abundance and variety of plants and animals. Manyare rare or not found anywhere else and new species continue to be discovered.This World Heritage emblemsymbolises the interdependenceof cultural and naturalproperties: the central square isa form created by people andthe circle represents nature.The two are intimately linked.You can help care for yourself and Kakadu by following these guidelines:• Walk only on marked tracks.• Avoid damaging Aboriginal rock paintings by staying behind the barriers.• Protect plants and do not use tree branches as fly swats.• Do not feed or disturb wildlife.• Light fires only in fireplaces provided.• Use as little firewood as possible or use fuel stoves.• Camp only in designated camping areas.• Drive carefully and keep to the roads and carparks.• Obey warning signs.6Kakadu National Park is home to many Aboriginal people. As in most cultures,Bininj/Mungguy culture has its own set of social behaviours and customs, whichare considered good manners. Please consider these while visiting Kakadu.• Religion and ceremony are very important parts of Bininj/Mungguylife. Show respect by not entering restricted areas such as sacred sites,ceremonial sites or burial grounds.• Traditionally Bininj/Mungguy do not greet each other everytime they meet. However, most Bininj/Mungguy are used to non-Aboriginal people doing so and may expect a ‘hello’.• Many Bininj/Mungguy do not use personal names as freely as non-Aboriginal people do and often address each other by kinship terms.• Bininj/Mungguy appreciate privacy. It is good manners not to enterliving areas and not to take photographs of Bininj/Mungguy withoutpermission.• Some Bininj/Mungguy find constant eye contact uncomfortable.• In Bininj/Mungguy culture, it is important to pay attention, and toconsider your questions carefully.• It is polite to say ‘good bye’ when leaving. In this area the Bininj/Mungguy word for good bye is boh boh (pronounced bor bor).• In Bininj/Mungguy culture, it is often not appropriate to use thenames or display images of deceased people.• Areas may close at short notice for cultural purposes at the requestof traditional owners.Pronouncing Bininj/Mungguy namesUnlike English, the spelling system used to record local Aboriginal languages isvery consistent. So once you have learnt the alphabet, it is quite easy to pronouncewords by sounding them out.The Aboriginal Language Park Note details the Gun-djeihmi alphabet. It isavailable from the Bowali Visitor Centre. In this guide, English approximations forsome names are given in brackets.7

Kakadu's habitatsSavanna woodlandsTravelling anywhere in Kakadu, youcan’t help but notice the woodlandswhich make up nearly eighty percent ofthe park. Consisting mostly of eucalyptsand tall grasses, at first glance theymight seem lifeless and monotonous.However, the woodlands support agreater variety of plants and animalsthan any other habitat in the park.Road side, South Alligator Area, dry season.Monsoon forestsUnlike the expansive woodlands,monsoon forests occur in small,isolated patches. Fruit-eating birds andflying foxes help to link the plants inthese isolated pockets of forest togetherby dispersing pollen and seeds as theymove around.Stone countryTo the east of the Kakadu Highway isthe dominating sandstone escarpmentof the Arnhem Land Plateau. It rangesin height from 30 metres to 300 metres.In some areas the escarpment is erodingby up to one metre every thousandyears, leaving behind rock shelters andoutliers like Ubirr and Nourlangie.Nawurlandja lookout, Nourlangie Area, wet season.Floodplains and billabongsFloodplains such as the South Alligatorfloodplain visible from the ArnhemHighway undergo dramatic seasonalchanges. Following wet season rains,a sea of shallow freshwater spreadsover the plains for hundreds of squarekilometres. As the floodplains start todry, waterbirds and crocodiles seekrefuge in the remaining wet areas suchas Yellow Water Billabong.Ngurrungurrudjba (Yellow Water), dry season.Manngarre walk, East Alligator Area, dry season.Southern hills and ridgesIn the south of the park, hills and brokenridge lines are the result of millions ofyears of erosion. The unusual geology ofthis area is reflected in the diversity ofhabitats and the presence of plants andanimals that do not occur anywhere elsein the world.Gimbat road side, Mary River Area, dry season.Tidal flats and coastKakadu protects almost 500 squarekilometres of coastal and estuarineareas, as well as two islands. Most ofthese areas are lined with mangroveforests which form an importantnursery for many fish includingbarramundi. Kakadu’s wetlands,which include floodplains, billabongs,rivers, coastal and estuarine areas, arerecognised internationally as beingsignificant for migratory birds.Waldak Irrmbal, West Alligator Head, dry season.89

The role of fireFire has a major influence on the Australian environment and has shaped many ofthe plant communities we see today.Traditional burningFire has been an important part of Aboriginal life for thousands of years. It wasused to signal others and is still used for cooking, to make hunting easier, toattract animals, to protect foods such as yams and to 'clean the country' before thehot dry weather comes.This earth, I never damage.I look after. Fire is nothing, just clean up.When you burn, new grass coming up.That means good animal soon,might be goanna, possum, wallaby.Burn him off, new grass coming up, new life all over.Bill Neidjie - Bunitj clan.Aboriginal traditional owner.Changes to traditional burningFires lit by Bininj/Mungguy as theytravelled to different parts of thecountry created a patchwork ofburnt and unburnt areas. With thearrival of non-Aboriginal people,the Bininj/Mungguy populationdecreased. Many people died ofdisease, others moved off theirland to towns and settlements.With fewer people on the land, lessburning was carried out, so hot, latedry season wildfires became morecommon. These hot fires were oftenlarge and destructive, changing thedistribution of plants and animals.Planned burningSince the 1980s, Bininj/Mungguyand park managers have workedtogether to reduce the number of hotfires at the end of the dry season.Burning around pandanus palms.Most burning takes place in the early dry season (May to July) when conditionsare relatively cool. These fires are generally of low intensity, and of little risk tohumans and most animals. Damp areas, left over from the wet season, help tobreak up fires and create a patchwork pattern of burnt and unburnt areas.Although late dry season fires (September to November) are generally avoided,some floodplain burning, often by Bininj/Mungguy hunting goannas and turtles,does occur. Fires are also lit by lightning strikes at this time of the year. Wet seasonburning is used to reduce the amount of flammable spear grass (Sorghum spp)before the dry season.Reducing the risk of wildfires©Alderson,Gangaliand Haynes (1979)The Gundjeihmi Aboriginal Calendar shows lighting fires is part of the yearly cycle.Please help prevent wildfires. Make sure your cigarette butts and matches areout and put them in rubbish bins, not on the ground. Clear the area around yourcampfire and put it out before you leave.Fire as part of our environmentUsing fire wisely, for the right purposes at the right time, will ensure Australia’sunique environment is maintained for present and future generations.1011

1. South Alligator AreaIf you have more timeGu-ngarre (Goong-narr-ee) walkWhere: Starts at the large banyan figtree near the Aurora Kakadu Resort.Features: A 3.6 km circular walkthrough monsoon forest and woodlandsand along the margins of a billabong.Allow 2 hours.South Alligator River and picnic areaWhere: Near the South Alligator Bridgeon the Arnhem Highway.Magpie goose (Anseranas smipalmata)Places to stayAurora Kakadu ResortMotel rooms, tent sites, poweredand unpowered van sites, restaurant,cafe and store. Pool for guests only.Reservations recommended, telephone(08) 8979 0166.Bush camping areas (check wet season access)Free camping with basic or no toiletfacilities is available at Two Mile,Four Mile Hole, Red Lily Billabong,Bucket Billabong, Alligator Billabongand Waldak Irrmbal (West AlligatorHead). See inside cover map for roadaccess. Drinking water is not available.Rubbish bins are not provided, bringrubbish out with you.ServicesThe Kakadu Resort store sells petrol,LPG gas (LPG bottle refills only),diesel, food and souvenirs.Main AttractionMamukala (Mar-moo-car-lar) wetlandsWhere: Turn south off the ArnhemHighway 7 km east of the SouthAlligator River.Features: Mamukala is beautiful allyear but at its most dramatic in thelate dry season (Sept - Oct) whenthousands of magpie geese congregateto feed. An observation platform allowsyou to view the birdlife while a muralillustrates the seasonal changes thatoccur through the year. There is alsoa 3 km walk adjacent to the wetlands.Allow 1 to 2 hours for the full walk.Features: Picnic tables and barbequeareas.Boat ramps: At the northern end of thecarpark (see page 29 for more boatinginformation).Off the highway (dry season only, 4WD)Where: There are two major fourwheel drive tracks in this area: theWaldak Irrmbal (West Alligator Head)Magpie geese in flight.track (which accesses Two Mile Hole,and Four Mile Hole) and the RedLily, Bucket Billabong and AlligatorBillabong track (see inside cover map).Features: Both tracks take you todestinations suitable for boating, birdwatching and camping.Please read the crocodile informationon page 25.1213

2. Jabiru AreaMain AttractionBowali (Bor-warl-ee) Visitor CentreWhere: Turn west off the KakaduHighway, 5 km from Jabiru.Features: Named after the BowaliCreek which flows nearby, the centre'slong linear design was inspired byan Aboriginal rock shelter. TheBowali Visitor Centre contains awealth of information about Kakaduincluding videos, library and a display.Information staff are available to helpplan your visit.Open: 8.00 am to 5.00 pm.The Marrawuddi Gallery stocksAboriginal arts and crafts, books andgifts. Refreshments are available fromthe Anmak An-me Café.The Gallery and café are open from9.00am to 5pm. Allow a few hoursto explore the centre and learn moreabout Kakadu.Places to stayGagudju Crocodile Holiday InnHotel rooms, restaurant, gift shop andbookings for commercial tours. Poolfor hotel guests only. Reservationsrecommended, telephone (08) 8979 2800.Kakadu LodgeBudget accommodation, cabins, tent sites,powered van sites, barbeque facilitiesand campers kitchen. Pool for guestsonly. Bar/bistro for guests and visitors.Telephone (08) 8979 2422.Lakeview ParkBush bungalows, cabins and airconditionedrooms. Reservationsrecommended, telephone (08) 8979 3144.Picnic areaLakeview ParkBush camping areas (check wet season road access)Free camping with basic toilet facilitiesis available at Malabanjbanjdju andBurdulba. Drinking water is not available.Please read the crocodile informationon page 25.ServicesIn Jabiru there are many servicesincluding: service station,supermarket, newsagent and postoffice (Commonwealth Bank agency),Westpac Bank, travel agent, medicalcentre and chemist, police, publictelephones, swimming pool, library(internet), hairdresser, golf course,restaurant and café.If you have more timeBowali bike and walking trackWhere: Starts opposite the GagudjuCrocodile Holiday Inn in Jabiru.Features: A 4 km return rammed earthpath winds its way through woodlandsto-the Bowali Visitor Centre. Allow 30 to45 minutes each way.Iligadjarr (Illy-gar-jarr) walk(dry season only)Where: Starts at the Malabanjbanjdjuor Burdulba Camping Areas.Features: A 3.8 km circular walk acrossa small grassy floodplain and alongBurdulba Billabong. Allow 2 hours.Scenic flightsWhere: Available from Jabiru East andCooinda Airstrips. Bookings can bemade through the Jabiru Travel Centre,telephone (08)-8979 2548.Features: Commercial flights provide abird’s eye view of Kakadu and its manyand varied habitats.Commercial toursCommercial 4WD tours, boat toursand neighbouring Arnhem Land tourscan be booked at the Jabiru TravelCentre, telephone (08) 8979 2548, orat commercial accommodation centres,or by phoning the tour operators direct.Management section of Bowali Visitor Centre display.Partridge pigeon.1415

3. East Alligator AreaBardedjilidji walk.Please be alert at all times as crocodilescan be found near the waters edge andsometimes near walking tracks by the river.Places to stayKakadu Hostel (check wet season access)Budget double, twin share and dormitoryaccommodation located behind theBorder Store. Full kitchen and barbecuefacilities. Pool for guests only. Bookingsrecommended, telephone (08) 8979 2232.DownstreamBoat Ramp01.20UpstreamBoat RampMerl Camping Area (check wet season access)Showers, toilets and generator zone.Camping fees (adults only) are collectedon site.ServicesThe Border Store sells unleaded petrol,diesel, food, fishing gear and souvenirsand takes bookings for commercialtours, telephone (08) 8979 2474.Note: Fuel and other services may notbe available from December to April.Please read the crocodile informationon page 25.Main AttractionsUbirr (Oo-beerr)(check wet season access and opening times)Where: Turn north off the ArnhemHighway 1 km west of the KakaduHighway intersection and travel a further39 km.Features: A 1 km circular track takes youpast several fascinating Aboriginal rockart sites. An additional 250 m moderatelysteep climb takes you to the top of a rockylookout that gives superb views over theNardab floodplain. The views at sunsetare particularly beautiful. Allow at least1-hour.Ubirr Open:April 1 to Nov 30 from 8.30am – sunset.Dec 1 to March 31 from 2.00pm – sunset.Talks: During the dry season, rangersprovide informative talks aboutAboriginal art and culture several times aday. See the What's On guide for details.Note: Traditional owners request that youdon't drink alcohol at Ubirr.East Alligator River (check wet season access)Where: Just east of Merl Camping Areaand the Border Store.Features: An attractive tidal river whichforms the boundary between Kakadu andArnhem Land.Boat tours: Commercial boat cruisesoperate on the East Alligator River duringthe dry season and on Magela Creekduring the wet season. Guides explainaspects of local Aboriginal culture whileyou travel slowly along the waterways.Bookings required (08) 8979 2411.Boat ramps: Are located upstream anddownstream of Cahills Crossing (seepage-29 for more boating information).If you have more timeBardedjilidji (Bar-ded-jill-id-gee) walk(check wet season access)Where: Starts at a small carpark 500 mfrom the upstream boat ramp.Features: A 2.5 km walk through layeredsandstone outliers. This is one of Kakadu'smost interesting short walks. Allow 2hours.Manngarre (Marn-narr-ay) rainforest walk(dry season only)Three circular walks, from 0.6km to1.5km, through monsoon rainforestbeside the East Alligator River. Allow 1hour for the 1.5km walk.Cahills Crossing picnic area(check wet season access)Where: Near the carpark across theroad from the Border Store.Features: Riverside picnic tables anda viewing platform over the EastAlligator River.Sandstone and river bushwalk(dry season only)Where: Starts off the Bardedjilidji walklocated in the Ubirr Area.Features: A 6.5 km marked circularwalk which takes you past CatfishCreek, floodplains, billabongs,sandstone outliers and the EastAlligator River. Allow 4 hours.1617

4. Nourlangie Areaprovides impressive views of Kakadu’sescarpment and Nourlangie Rock.Gubara (Goo-bar-rar) Pools walk(check wet season access)Where: After leaving the Nourlangiecarpark, take the first road to the rightand travel a further 9 km.Talks: During the dry season, rangersprovide informative talks several timesa day. See the What's On guide fordetails.If you have more timeAnbangbang (Arn-barng-barng) Billabong(check wet season access)Where: After leaving the Nourlangiecarpark, take the first road to the left.Features: A 6 km return walk pastsandstone cliffs to shady monsoonforest pools. A pleasant place to spendthe heat of the day. Allow 4 hours.Bubba (Boop-bar) walk (dry season only)Where: Starts at the Muirella ParkCamping Area.Burrunggui (Boor-oon-goy) is theGun-djeihmi name for the uppersection of Nourlangie Rock.Anbangbang is the name for the lowersection of the rock and surroundingarea.Places to stayMuirella Park Camping Area(check wet season access)Showers, toilets and generator zone.Camping fees (adults only) are collectedon site during the dry season. Pleasepay at the Bowali Visitor Centre duringthe wet season.Bush Camping Area(dry season only, 4WD recommended)A free camping area with basic toiletfacilities is available beyond MuirellaPark at Sandy Billabong.ServicesMain AttractionNourlangieWhere: Turn off the Kakadu Highway19 km south of the Bowali VisitorCentre and travel a further 12 km.Please note speed limits. Take care anddrive safely.Features: A 1.5 km circular walktakes you past an ancient Aboriginalshelter and several outstanding artsites. A moderately steep climbto Gun-warddehwardde LookoutFeatures: Several picnic tables and a2.5-km dry season circular walk. WithNourlangie Rock forming an impressivebackdrop, this is one of Kakadu’s mostattractive billabongs. Allow 1 hour.Nawurlandja (Now-oo-larn-ja) LookoutwalkWhere: After leaving the Nourlangiecarpark, take the second road to theleft.Features: A 600 m climb up amoderately steep slope offers goodviews of the escarpment, Nourlangieand Anbangbang Billabong. Allow 40minutes.Nanguluwur (Narng-oo-loo-war) art site walkWhere: After leaving the Nourlangiecarpark, take the first road to the right.Features: A 3.4 km return walkthrough woodlands leads to a quiet artsite with some interesting Aboriginalrock art. Allow 2 hours.Features: A 3.5 km circular walkthrough several wetland habitats. Allow2 hours.Please read the crocodile informationon page 25.Mirrai (Mirr-eye) Lookout walkWhere: Turn south-east off the KakaduHighway 30 km south of the BowaliVisitor Centre.Features: A moderately difficult 3.6 kmreturn walk to a platform lookout ontop of Mount Cahill. It is a steep climb.Allow 1.5 hours.Barrk bushwalkWhere: This marked walk branches offthe Nourlangie Rock lookout track, justpast the Main Gallery.Features: A difficult 12 km walkthrough the sandstone country ofNourlangie, past the Nanguluwur artgallery and back to the car park. Seethe Barrk Walk Park Note. Allow 6 to8 hours.None.Alyurr (Leichhardt’s grasshopper).1819

5. Yellow Water Area1The local Aboriginal name for the YellowWater Area is Ngurrungurrudjba (Noorroon-goo-rooj-bar).Places to stayGagudju Lodge CooindaMotel rooms, budget accommodation,tent sites, powered van sites, bistro,restaurant, pool and store. Reservationsrecommended, telephone(08) 8979 0145.Mardugal Camping Area(check wet season access)Showers, toilets and generator zone.Camping fees (adults only) are collected202on site during the dry season. Pleasepay at the Bowali Visitor Centre duringthe wet season.Bush Camping Areas (check wet season access)Free camping with basic or notoilet facilities is available at JimJim Billabong. Drinking water notavailable.ServicesThe Gagudju Lodge Cooinda Storesells petrol, LPG gas, diesel, food andsouvenirs, and takes bookings forcommercial tours.2.53.5Main AttractionsYellow Water Wetlands (check wet season access)Where: Turn north-west off the KakaduHighway 50 km south of the BowaliVisitor Centre.Features: Yellow Water is part of theSouth Alligator River floodplain. Duringthe early dry season, a boardwalkprovides good views of Yellow Water’swildlife. When the waters recede, a 1km return walk takes you across thefloodplains to a viewing platform onHome Billabong.Boat tours: Commercial boat cruisesoperate on Yellow Water throughout theyear and provide a marvellous opportunityto see the varied birdlife of Kakadu’sWorld Heritage wetlands. Bookingsrequired, telephone (08) 8979 0111.Warradjan (Warr-ar-jarn) AboriginalCultural CentreWhere: On the Yellow Water andCooinda road.Features: The circular design of thiscultural centre represents a warradjan(pig-nosed turtle). The Centre’s largedisplay, developed by Bininj/Mungguy,provides detailed information aboutAboriginal culture in Kakadu. There isalso a video room and a gallery that sellsAboriginal arts and crafts, books and cards.Open daily: 9:00 am to 5:00 pm.If you have more timeMardugal (Mar-doo-garl) Billabong walk(dry season only)Where: Starts at the caravan section ofthe Mardugal Camping Area.Features: A 1 km return walk followsthe edge of Mardugal Billabong. Allow30 minutes.21Gun-gardun (Goong-gar-don) walkWhere: Starts near the entrance of theMardugal Camping Area.Features: A 2 km circular walk throughwoodlands, Kakadu’s most widespreadhabitat. Allow 1 hour.Jacana.BoatingWhere: Boat ramps are located atJim Jim Billabong, Yellow Water andMardugal Billabong (see page 29 formore boating information).Features: During the height of the wetseason these billabongs join up and it ispossible to boat between them.Please read the crocodile informationon page 25.Scenic flightsWhere: Available from Jabiru Eastand Cooinda Airstrips, bookings arerequired, telephone 1800 089 113.Features: Flights provide the onlymeans of seeing the spectacular Jim Jimand Twin Falls when they are in fullflood, during the wet season.

6. Mary River AreaInformation Bayand RangerStationWirnwirnmila Mary River Road HouseA large part of southern Kakadu is known bythe Jawoyn people as 'sickness country'. Withinit rest a number of powerful creation ancestorswho must not be disturbed.Places to stayWirnwirnmila Mary River Road House(just outside Kakadu)Motel rooms, backpacker accommodation,powered van sites and camping. Phone(08)8975 4564. The Wirnwirnmila MaryRiver Roadhouse is owned by Jawoyn, theTraditional Owners of the southern sectionof the park.Gunlom Camping Area(gravel road; dry season only)Showers, toilets and generator zone.Gunlom plunge pool is located nearby.Camping fees (adults only) are collected onsite.22Bush Camping AreasFree camping with basic toilet facilities,BBQ areas and picnic tables is availableat Maguk, Gungurul and Kambolgie.Drinking water is not available. Pleasecheck wet season access for Maguk andKambolgie.ServicesThe Wirnwirnmila Mary River Roadhouseprovides meals / morning and afternoonteas, takeaway food, stores and fuel.Main AttractionGunlom (Goon-lom)(gravel road; check wet season access)Where: Turn east off the Kakadu Highway5 km north of the Information Bay andMary River Ranger Station. Travel 26 km,turn left at the Gunlom Y junction andtravel a further 11 km.Features: A popular camping area locatednear a clear plunge pool and waterfall.A 2 km return steep climb takes you tothe top of the waterfall and a lookoutwith great views over southern Kakadu.There is also a 2 km return walk to MurrillBillabong from the camping area.If you have more timeYurmikmik Walks(gravel road; check wet season access)Where: Turn east off the Kakadu Highwayonto the Gunlom road and travel 21 km.Features: A series of interconnectedwalking tracks which provide an excellentwet season experience. The individualwalks are: Boulder Creek Walk (2 kmreturn); Yurmikmik Lookout Walk (5km return); Motor Car Falls (7.5 kmreturn) and Kurrundie Creek Walk (11km return).Gimbat picnic area (dry season only, 4WD)Where: Travel 26 km east on the Gunlomroad, turn right at the Y junction and travela further 19 km.Features: A shady picnic area situated nearGuratba (Coronation Hill) and the SouthAlligator River.Gungurul (Goong-gu-rool) Picnic and Camping AreaWhere: Turn west off the Kakadu Highway40 km north of the Southern Entry Station.Features: Gungurul is accessible all yearby 2WD vehicles, caravans, campervansand coaches. There are picnic tablesand basic toilet facilities. A 4 km returnwalk leads you to a branch of the SouthAlligator River and up a moderate climbto a lookout with views over the SouthAlligator Valley. Allow 2 to 3 hours.23Maguk (Mar-gook) Plunge Pool *(gravel road, dry season only, 4WD recommended)Where: Turn south off the KakaduHighway 44 km north of the SouthernEntry Station or 92 km south of theBowali Visitor Centre. Travel a further12 km.Features: A 2 km return walk throughmonsoon forest and along a sandy androcky creek leads to a small waterfall andclear plunge pool. Allow 1 to 2 hours.* Estuarine crocodiles have been known tomove into Maguk. Please read the crocodileinformation on page 25.Bukbukluk LookoutWhere: Turn west off the Kakadu Highway8 km north of the Southern Entry Stationor 124 km south of the Bowali VisitorCentre. Travel a further 600 m on anunsealed road.Features: Picnic tables and a 400 m returnwalk to a lookout with views over the oldGoodparla Station.Jarrangbarnmi (dry season only, 4WD)Bush camping beside Koolpin Creek.Access by permit only. Permits can beorganised through the Permits Officer,Kakadu National Park (08) 8938 1140.Please read the crocodileinformation on page 25.Great bower bird.

Visitor SafetyWhat to wearDuring the heat of the day, you will be most comfortable inloose covering clothing which is cool but protects you fromsunburn and insect bites. Use sunscreen and wear a widebrimmed hat and sunglasses. Mosquitoes can carry viruses suchas the Ross River virus, so if they are biting, use a repellent.Preventing dehydrationLimit your activity to the cooler parts of the day (morningsand late afternoons) and drink plenty of water. Most peopleneed between 4 to 8 litres of water per day so start drinkingwater early (coffee, tea and alcohol don't count!). Remember, ifyou’re feeling thirsty, you’re already partially dehydrated.Dehydration signs and symptomsEarly symptoms include feeling thirsty, excess sweating, headache, dizziness andnausea. If dehydration continues, it can result in seizures, a loss of consciousnessand even death.Flash FloodingFirst aid• Lie the person down in a cool shaded area.• Give them water in small quantities at a time (creekwater is alright if you have no other water).• If the person cannot keep the water down, or doesnot recover quickly, seek medical assistance.• For further medical assistance and advice pleasecontact the medical centre at Jabiru on 8979 2018.• Emergency Call Device’s [ECD] are available inremote locations throughout the park. Instructions onuse are written on the ECD. These are for emergencycalls only. See maps for locations.Please be aware of possible sudden rises in the water levels of waterways, whichcan quickly cut off the return route from the top of waterfalls such as Gunlomand Jim Jim. Fast flowing water contained within a flash flood can be deceptivelystrong causing strong currents and dangerous swimming conditions.26Driving hintsTop End roads can be hazardous. Plan ahead and allow sufficient time for travel.Here are some other hints to reduce the risk of accident.Dirt and Gravel Roads: Unsealed roads are often corrugated with soft edges.During the dry season, dust from other vehicles can obscure your vision. Duringthe wet season, unsealed roads become slippery. Drive carefully. If you accidentallydrift off the edge, correct your direction carefully and brake evenly.Check wet season road access: For up-to-date information on road conditionscontact the Bowali Visitor Centre on (08) 8938 1120.Animals: Large feral animals such as horses and buffaloes, and native animals suchas wallabies and birds live in Kakadu. Drive slowly, look out for animals on theroad, and try to avoid driving at night.Flooded crossings: Read the signs, look at depth markers and observe howquickly the water is flowing, before deciding whether to cross a flooded crossing.Sometimes it is safer to wait until the water recedes. Remember crocodiles may bepresent.Four Wheel Driving (4WD): When using 4WD tracks, put your vehicle into 4WD.This is easier on your car and easier on the track. If you’re unfamiliar with yourvehicle, follow the instructions to engage 4WD. Many vehicles need their frontwheel hubs physically turned to the locked position, before engaging 4WD fromthe driver’s seat.Fires: Make sure you park your vehicle in cleared areas rather than in flammablelong grass. Use vehicle headlights if driving through areas with heavy smoke, anddrive slowly.Road side viewing: Park your vehicle well off the road and use your hazard lightsto-alert other drivers that you have stopped. Do not park on bridges or causewaysat any time.Warning: Don’t leave valuables in your vehicle-vehicles have been broken into.27

Exploring Aboriginal cultureTraditional owners would like you to learn about Aboriginal culture during yourvisit to Kakadu and neighbouring areas.Aboriginal rock art sitesBininj/Mungguy and their creation ancestors have painted in rock shelters forthousands of years. Signs at Ubirr, Nourlangie and Nanguluwur explain some ofthese paintings. The Rock Art Park Note available at the Bowali Visitor Centreexplains the main rock art styles found in the area.Ranger guided walks and talksDuring the dry season, rangers provide daily art site talks at Ubirr and Nourlangie.They also provide a number of guided walks and slide shows throughout the park.Check the What's On guide for details.Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural CentreBininj/Mungguy have explained aspects of their culture at the WarradjanAboriginal Cultural Centre.Ngad Bininj ngarri-djare ngudda wurrim-irewurrih-nan ngad gun-bolk dja ngad culture.We Aboriginal people want you to come,see our country and share our culture.Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre.Aboriginal arts and craftsBininj/Mungguy artistic expression continues on paper, bark and other materials,often using traditional ochres and brushes. Introduced techniques such as screenprinting are used to reproduce detailed designs on fabric. Baskets, dilly bags andwoven mats are made from local plant fibres, such as pandanus, and colouredusing natural dyes.Arts and crafts can be viewed or bought at the Warradjan Aboriginal CulturalCentre, Marrawuddi Gallery(Bowali Visitor Centre), and Injalak Arts and Crafts(Kunbarllanjnja, Arnhem Land).A permit to visit Injalak in Arnhem Land can be arranged through the NorthernLand Council in Jabiru, telephone (08) 8979 2410. 4WD tours to Arnhem Landare also available (see page 13 for details).Katherine regionThe Nitmiluk Visitor Centre situated 30 km north-east of Katherine providesinformation about Jawoyn culture. Aboriginal cultural tours to ManyallalukCommunity depart regularly from Katherine.Bookings required, telephone (08) 8975 4727.28Boating and fishingBoating on Kakadu's waterways can be dangerous due to strong currents, sand bars,submerged logs and crocodiles. For this reason use of non-motorised vessels (canoes)is prohibited. If using a motorised vessel please let someone know where you aregoing and what time you expect to be back. In tidal areas always carry life jackets,water, oars, flares, torch, tool kit, extra fuel and a satellite phone. Refer to theNorthern Territory Marine Act signs for more detailed safety information. Boating isprohibited in certain areas - check at Bowali Visitor Centre for details.Boat rampsConcrete boat ramps are located at the South Alligator River near the ArnhemHighway, the East Alligator River, Yellow Water, Mardugal and Jim Jim Billabong.Unsealed boat ramps are located at Waldak Irrmbal and Muirella Park.Warning: Crocodiles occur near boat ramps.Beware of SalviniaSalvinia is a free floating aquatic fern native to South America. It was originallyimported as an aquarium plant. It reproduces very rapidly by growing from smallfragments. The areas between Yellow Water north to the South Alligator River, and theMagela Creek from Mudginberri to Nankeen Billabongs have been closed to boatingas a quarantine measure. If boating near salvina please help stop this weed fromchoking Kakadu's wetland areas by checking and removing any salvinia from yourboat, trailer and car before moving on.Immature salvinia.Covered billabong.Mature salvinia.Fishing (live bait is not permitted)Recreational fishing, using a line with a single hook or lure, is permitted in waterswest of the Kakadu Highway except in the West Alligator River system. To providerefuge areas, fishing is not permitted in waters east of the Kakadu Highwayexcept at the camping areas of Muirella Park (Djarradjin and Sandy Billabongs)and Jim Jim Billabong. Firearms, nets, traps, spear guns, spears and crab pots arenot permitted in any Commonwealth Reserve. A landing net may be used to landhooked fish. Contact the Bowali Visitor Centre, telephone (08) 8938 1120 for up-todateinformation.29

BushwalkingViewing the wildlifeOvernight bushwalkingIf you plan to camp overnight on abushwalk you will need a permit. Toobtain a permit, you must submitan application and provide a copyof a topographic map showing yourproposed route and camping sites forapproval. Permits can be organisedthrough the Permits Officer KakaduNational Park telephone (08) 89381140or the Bowali Visitor Centre in Kakadu(see page 33). Please allow at least oneweek for processing. Make sure youread and understand the permitconditions.Please note: Good navigational skillsare essential. You must stick to thebushwalking route and camping sitesapproved in your permit.“Walking is good.You follow track......you sleep,wake in morning to birds,maybe kookaburra.You feel country.”Bill Neidjie - Bunitj clan,Aboriginal traditional owner.If you’re well prepared and physicallyfit, then bushwalking is a great way toexperience Kakadu. The Bushwalkingin Kakadu booklet provides importantinformation on safe bushwalking. Itis available from the Bowali VisitorCentre. To assist in caring for the Park,please stay on the marked tracks.Day walksIf you’d like to do a half-day or fulldaywalk, try the Sandstone and Riverbushwalk (described on page 17),the Barrk bushwalk (page 19), theYurmikmik walks (page 23) or theBarrk Malam walk (described below).Barrk Marlam bushwalk(dry season only)Kakadu is one of the few places inAustralia where there have been limited,if any, extinctions of plants or animalsover the last 200 years. Kakadu is astronghold for animals such as magpiegeese which once occurred throughouteastern and southern Australia. The parkalso protects the habitats of animalsthat only occur in the Kakadu/ArnhemLand region such as the black wallaroo(right), chestnut–quilled rock pigeon(directly below) and the white–throatedgrass wren (bottom).Rock Pigeon.Black Wallaroo (Female: Macropus bernardus)Some hints• The mornings and evenings aregood times to see animals such asbirds and wallabies. During thehotter times of the day, animals tendto be less active.• Waterholes along creeklines attractanimals, especially small birds. Sitquietly as animals in need of watercan frighten easily.• Use binoculars during the day or atorch at night.Where: This marked day walkbranches off the Jim Jim Falls PlungePool track (see page 24).Features: A very steep, difficult 6 kmreturn walk through the rugged stonecountry typical of the Arnhem LandPlateau. Allow 4 to 6 hours.Sandstone antechinus.Northern Fantail.• Look for animals such as lizards,snakes, bandicoots and dingoescrossing the road. Slow down so thatyou see the wildlife rather than runover it!• Please don’t feed the wildlife.Animals such as dingoes and kitescan be dangerous if they becomeused to people.3031

Suggested ItinerariesIf you have reached the end of this guide and are still undecided about where togo, here are a couple of itineraries that might help!One day rush aroundDry seasonMamukala wetlandsBowali Visitor CentreNourlangie art siteWarradjan Aboriginal Cultural CentreYellow Water boat cruise or walkTwo day glimpse or three day stayDry seasonDay 1Mamukala wetlandsBowali Visitor CentreManngarre rainforest walkEast Alligator boat cruiseor Cahills Crossing picnic areaUbirr art site and sunset lookoutDay 2Scenic flight from Cooinda or Jabiru AirstripsNourlangie art siteAnbangbang Billabong walkWarradjan Aboriginal Cultural CentreYellow Water boat cruise or walkDay 3Gunlom Plunge Pool and Lookout orJim Jim Falls & Twin Falls(self drive or commercial tour)Wet seasonBowali Visitor CentreNourlangie art siteWarradjan Aboriginal Cultural CentreYellow Water boat cruiseWet seasonDay 1Bowali Visitor CentreNourlangie art siteNawurlandja Lookout walkNanguluwur art site walkDay 2Mirrai Lookout walkScenic flights from Jabiru AirstripWarradjan Aboriginal Cultural CentreYellow Water boat cruiseDay 3Yurmikmik walks orBarrk Sandstone bushwalk orGubara Pools walkNote: Visitors entering the park from the south are advised to follow these itineraries inreverse order. Please check wet season access for suggested sites.Further informationPaying for the ParkConserving Kakadu's World Heritage values andpresenting them to the public costs several million dollarseach year. The Australian Government provides nearlyall of the funds needed, as the requirement for visitor'sto pay Park Entry fees was removed in December 2004.The collection of other fees and charges, such as campingfees at major campgrounds, also helps to pay for theseimportant services.Bowali Visitor Centre LibraryRead more about Kakadu in air conditioned comfort.Other reference materialsPress T, Lea D., Webb A, and Graham A. (eds).1995. Kakadu: Natural and Cultural Heritage andManagement. Australian Nature Conservation Agency,The Australian National University, Darwin.Park publications such as Kakadu by Foot, KakaduNational Park Tour Operators Handbook and ParkNotes on animals, Aboriginal rock art, Aboriginallanguages, fishing, geology and selected walking tracks.These park-publications are available from:Bowali Visitor Centre Parks Australia NorthPO Box 71 GPO Box 1260Jabiru NT 0886 Darwin NT 0801Phone: (08) 8938 1120 Phone: (08) 8920 1300Fax: (08) 8938 1123 Fax: (08) 8920 1315Email: KakaduNationalPark@deh.gov.auWebsite: www.deh.gov.au/parks/kakaduBoh boh (good bye).Remember boh boh is not the finish, it’s just the beginning.Kakadu Board of Management and park staff.32Most Aboriginal artwork provided by Daluk Daluk Screen Printing. Photos by C. Totterdell, G. Miles,D. Lucas, M. Hatt, M. Storrs and J. Golling. Illustrations by S. Gerrie, P. Shaughnessy and cartoons by J. van Os.07/05 180 00033

Your Health & SafetyKakadu National Park is a beautiful place but can be dangerous ifyou do not look after yourself.Read and obey all warning signs, notices and safety directions.Please remember these important points:CrocodilesEstuarine crocodiles are dangerous. They have attackedand killed people.Estuarine crocodiles inhabit most areas of water inKakadu National Park including freshwater billabongsand creeks as well as rivers and saltwater areas.In most locations, crocodile warning signs tell you not toenter the water and to keep away from the water’s edge.Obey signs warning of crocodiles.If you do not see a warning sign you should assume thatcrocodiles are present. Do not enter the water unlessyou are sure it is safe to do so. See page 25 for moreinformation about crocodiles.CliffsWalking or standing near cliff edges can lead to seriousinjury or death, especially when rock surfaces are wet.Keep well away from all cliff edges.DRIVE CAREFULLYDrivingPlease drive carefully!See page 27 for more information.Please take care! Don’t risk your life.For more safety information, please read pages 25, 26, 27 and 30inside this Visitor Guide. Information is also available from theBowali Visitor Centre on (08) 8938 1120.

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