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#61
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Yep, you really have to keep an eye on hoses, but it's just standard maintenance to inspect hoses. In the case of add-on hoses like you have with an aftermarket oil bypass system, the biggest thing to be worried about is probably hose routing. Keep them from rubbing and vibrating when they are installed.
Back when I was worked with a company that was importing bypass filters from Germany, I handled a lot of installation questions for them, and that was my usually my biggest installation concern. You can have the best hoses and fittings in the world, but if you route them poorly, you'll have problems. I'll be installing the Trabold bypass filter from my old Saturn on my 300D soon, and figure I'll just tap right in to the top of the filter housing with a banjo bolt. I only wish I could come up with a way to hang the filter on the motor itself, as that would relieve a lot of the hose shaking that will occur from mounting it remotely in the engine bay, which would translate to longer hose life and less chance of leaks.
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- K.C.Adams '77 300D Euro Delivery OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap 404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex Current status: * Undergoing body work My '77 300D progress thread |
#62
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Here is the site if someone wants to look: Trabold LC | Never Change Oil By the way I think the "Never Change Oil" Ad Line is poor advertising. A better line would be extended Oil changes. The Oil in Diesel Engines simply gets more contaminated than Gasser Oil does and the Engine Repair cost way more. In My opinion at some point the Oil needs to be changes. The Hose I used for the Bypass Oil Filter I believe was 1/4" ID Good/Year Slip Filt hose. If I remember correctly it has a working pressure of 300 psi. The Highest Oil Pressure on My Mercedes is 97 psi. If I was concerned about Hose issues it is pretty cheap just to change the Hose let us say everh 5 Years.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 12-01-2012 at 12:33 PM. |
#63
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The Trabold Bypass Filter seems to be another Paper Element type Filter where the Paper is wound like Toilet Paper.
Less expensive is a Filter one our our Members is using made by Motor Guard. At one time Motor Guard competed with the Frantz Oil Cleaner/Filter but the Guy who made that got tired of people/Mechanics critisizing it and He stopped marketing it as and Oil Filter and sells still sells them but as Air/Oil Filters for Plasma type Welding equipment. Presently the Filter Housing by itself costs about $63-$75 if you do some shopping. The kits cost more because they come with 2 Motor Guard Elements. The M-30 is the Housing with 1/4 inch Pipe thread inlet and outlet holes. The do not market bypass Oil Filter kits with Hoses and Fittings like the used to. In the past people used Toilet Paper as the Filter Element but the Company sells their own Elements. From left to right the first 2 pics are of Vintage Motor Guard stuff and the last pic of the Black anodized one is what it looks like now.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#64
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Yes, I use the real Trabold elements. There really isn't a way to substitute anything else in their place. Besides that, they were ridiculously cost-effective in both the gassers that I personally oversaw their use in, lasting about 60k miles before they stopped filtering well. A 617 being the soot factory that it is will plug them up faster, but they should still do pretty well.
For the record, I always thought it was insane to claim that their filters would eliminate all oil changes entirely, and fought hard for them not to push that claim here in the states. I do have to admit that under certain circumstances some seriously high change intervals are possible, but can't advise getting too crazy with extended use unless samples are routinely taken. I have seen some impressive data though, and I have also personally disassembled an engine which went 80k without an oil change using one of their filters coupled with premium synthetic oil. ( a defective injector damaged a piston, but the wear surfaces were all perfect.)
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- K.C.Adams '77 300D Euro Delivery OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap 404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex Current status: * Undergoing body work My '77 300D progress thread |
#65
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Incidentally, I use a MotorGuard on my shop air lines. It works fantastic at the end of 25' of copper line with a drain leg. It catches all of the water and oil that make it through the line, and I've never had trouble spraying paint because of it. I can see it working very well as a bypass oil filter.
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- K.C.Adams '77 300D Euro Delivery OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap 404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex Current status: * Undergoing body work My '77 300D progress thread |
#66
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The used Frantz Oil Filters show up more on eBay and it is hard to buy one fore less than $70. Functionally the Motor Gurads do the same thing and can be had new for about the same price. What I find interesting is even though the no longer market the Motor Guard Filters as Oill Filters they did not change the name to reflect the Air Line Filter use.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#67
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The only thing I see about the current motorguards sold as air filters that might pose a problem are the plastic bits inside. Maybe they would hold up okay, but it's the only questionable part of using one in my mind.
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- K.C.Adams '77 300D Euro Delivery OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap 404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex Current status: * Undergoing body work My '77 300D progress thread |
#68
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I like the look of the Frantz for my 82...looks slightly before era...but it's robust, effective (supposedly, tests will tell) and the elements are cheap. Also I'll say while I can't annotate it, that I did read a board post (not here) from a fella who said he scrapped his raycor after the Frantz showed cleaner oil on the lab tests he had run. I acutally dont care to jack around with making my car a test bunny...plus my odometer is currently broken...so it going on the car asap, hopefully to co-incide with the final of this head / manifold build I'm in the middle of
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-SpecialDelivery 1985 300CD Silver/Blue H&R Suspension (Sold, still cryin over that) 1982 300SD Silver/Blue '85 OM617 (Sold) 1982 300D - Blue/Blue (Sold) |
#69
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I ask because Racor has Spin-on Filters and have also put their name on another company's Bypass Oil Filter made by Oil Guard. It uses a fat String Wound Filter Element (the Element ie wrapped with string).
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#70
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No, just that they were 30something dollars each.
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#71
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1984 300D, 1972 LT1 Corvette, 2014 Artic White 3LT/Z51 C7, 2013 650i Convertible BMW, 1994 Kawasaki Vulcan, 1992 Yamaha Seca II and 1996 Dodge Ram 2500. |
#72
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At the top of that long Tube is a about 1/16" hole drilled into the side of the Tube; is that open?
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#73
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I didn't dare attempt to do that, it would have been a mess. The hole is free, since I have an extra cap I drilled a hole about the same place where your sending unit is mounted. that seems to send oil through the centrifuge and oil pressure is back to normal. Thank you.
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1984 300D, 1972 LT1 Corvette, 2014 Artic White 3LT/Z51 C7, 2013 650i Convertible BMW, 1994 Kawasaki Vulcan, 1992 Yamaha Seca II and 1996 Dodge Ram 2500. |
#74
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I believe the centrifuge uses the Oil Pressure to turn itself a long with Oil Pressure you need to have goodvolume/flow of Oil. The 1/16" hole it the center tube is just fine for a Bypass Oil Filter that uses an Filter Element but not enough volume/flow of Oil will go through that 1/16" hole to operate the Centrifuge.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#75
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pictures 29 =oil return to IP...30 = oil pressure port.. 31=filter housing..Installation not ideal but works as it should. Considering other locations.. Now takes 10 qts. of oil....Baldwin P-102 standard filter. Can quickly be restored to stock. Last edited by buch32; 02-19-2013 at 03:16 PM. |
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