The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 is a tourbillon made by the brand that invented the tourbillon. The high-level complication is in itself a horological achievement, but the new, skeletonized version counts as twice the triumph. Skeletonization is as challenging as creating a tourbillon, requiring skill and time. The trick is to carve away as much of the movement as possible without compromising its strength and functionality. Here, Breguet pares caliber 581SQ down to a mere 3 mm thickness – in the case, the watch is 7.70 mm thick – a technical feat for a self-winding tourbillon, with its automatic winding system. It required reconfiguring the movement altogether in the process of opening it up for display. The silicon escapement was given a distinctly angled shape (you can see it just above the bridge of the tourbillon), which helped to save space. Using a peripheral rotor further eliminates bulk – a central oscillating weight would have added another layer, and would have obscured the view of the movement from the back. A titanium tourbillon carriage helps to keep the construction robust, thus maintaining accuracy.
The movement is also outstanding from a metiers point of view. It is engraved by hand, and finished using engine-turning and anglage, or chamfering, the process of finishing all edges at 45 degree angles. The design is a nice balance between the traditional, neoclassical style of Breguet, including the guilloché hobnail pattern, and an approach that is quite contemporary: the 18k gold plate and bridges are not filigreed or scrolled in the conventional way but rather given a subtle, satin-brushed finish. The case is 18k rose gold or platinum. Numerals and logo are printed on a sapphire ring. It has an 80-hour power reserve.
The Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 is one of several new models introduced in Switzerland last week by Breguet, a brand owned by the Swatch Group, which opted to present its new introductions outside the Baselworld watch fair in Switzerland in March.
